In the oldest stories of Japan, the world once fell dark because the sun goddess slipped into a cave and rolled a great rock across the door. The other gods gathered outside, and what finally brought her out was not force but laughter, music, and a mirror. That goddess is Amaterasu, the radiant ruler of heaven, and her story is one of the most beloved tales in Japanese mythology.
This guide introduces Amaterasu and the ancient books that tell her story, the Kojiki and the Nihon Shoki. It retells the myth of the cave, follows the line from the goddess to the first emperor through the Three Sacred Treasures, and then moves from myth to place, with a practical look at Ise Jingu, her great shrine in Mie Prefecture, and the mountain village in Kyushu that claims the cave itself.
Most of what is known about Japanese mythology comes from two eighth-century books. The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) was presented to Empress Genmei in 712 by a court scholar named O no Yasumaro, who wrote down the stories that a court memorizer, Hieda no Are, had learned. It is in three volumes and mixes myth, genealogy, and early history, and its focus is the ruling family and the great clans of ancient Yamato.
The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), completed in 720, is a more formal national history modeled on the dynastic histories of China and intended in part for audiences abroad. It records many of the same stories, often with alternate versions placed side by side. Together the two books form the foundation of Shinto storytelling, and they are still the sources that guides, scholars, and shrine priests turn to when they explain the origin of the islands and the gods.
The tale begins with the divine pair Izanagi and Izanami. Standing on the floating bridge of heaven, they stirred the ocean with a jeweled spear, and the drops that fell from its tip formed the first island, Onogoro. They went on to give birth to the islands of Japan and to many kami (gods or sacred spirits). When Izanami died after giving birth to the fire god Kagutsuchi, Izanagi traveled to Yomi, the land of the dead, in the hope of bringing her back.
After returning, Izanagi purified himself in a river, and from that cleansing the most important deities were born. In the Kojiki, Amaterasu appeared when he washed his left eye. The moon deity Tsukuyomi came from the right eye, and the storm god Susanoo from his nose. Izanagi gave each a realm to rule, with Amaterasu holding the heavens and the sun. The theme of purification still echoes in the ritual washing of hands and mouth at shrine entrances today.
The most famous story follows a quarrel between Amaterasu and her brother Susanoo. His wild behavior, which included damaging her weaving hall, so troubled her that she withdrew into the cave called Ama-no-Iwato, and the world was plunged into darkness. The gods gathered in a great assembly and, guided by the wisdom of the god Omoikane, planned a celebration outside the cave.
A mirror, the Yata no Kagami, was crafted and held up by the god Ame-no-Koyane. The goddess Ame-no-Uzume performed a lively, comic dance that made the assembled gods roar with laughter. Curious about the noise, Amaterasu peeked out, saw her own radiant reflection in the mirror, and drew closer. The strong god Ame-no-Tajikarao then opened the door wide, and a holy seal was placed so she could never again withdraw. Light returned to the world. The seal is often pictured as a shimenawa (sacred rope), the kind seen at the entrances of shrines.
Amaterasu later sent her grandson Ninigi down to rule the earth. She gave him three treasures: the mirror, a jewel called Yasakani no Magatama, and a sword. These became the Three Sacred Treasures of the imperial house. Ninigi descended to the land of Takachiho in Kyushu, and his great-grandson Jimmu is traditionally regarded as the first emperor of Japan.
For this reason Amaterasu is considered the divine ancestor of the imperial family, and she is often described as the chief kami of the Shinto pantheon. The sun appears across Japanese culture as a symbol of her light, and the idea of the land of the rising sun is a familiar image. The mirror, in particular, is understood as a symbol of her presence, which is why it plays a central role at her shrine.
Ise Jingu, in Mie Prefecture, is the most sacred shrine in Japan. Its inner shrine, Naiku (also called Kotai Jingu), is dedicated to Amaterasu and is said to hold the Yata no Kagami. The outer shrine, Geku, honors Toyouke, a deity of food and agriculture. Pilgrims traditionally visit Geku first and then Naiku, which lies several kilometers to the south.
The shrine is renewed in a ceremony called Shikinen Sengu. Every 20 years, the main buildings are rebuilt and the sacred objects are moved into the new halls. The present buildings date from 2013, the 62nd rebuilding, and the next is scheduled for 2033. The first ceremonial rebuilding is recorded as having been carried out by Empress Jito in 692. The wooden Uji Bridge, about 100 meters long, crosses the Isuzu River at the entrance to Naiku and is also rebuilt every 20 years. The renewal keeps the shrine fresh and passes building skills to each new generation of carpenters.
In Miyazaki Prefecture, the town of Takachiho is linked to several myths, including the descent of Ninigi. Amano Iwato Shrine there marks the place where, according to tradition, the cave of Amaterasu stood. Visitors come to walk through a quiet setting of forest and river and to feel a sense of the story. The nearby Takachiho Gorge is one of the town's best-known sights.
In other parts of Japan, many shrines honor Amaterasu, and her image can be found in family altars called kamidana, shrines on a shelf at home. Festivals recall the cave myth in dances and ritual performances, and the story continues to inspire art, anime, and games. Learning a few names from the myth makes shrine visits more enjoyable, because the names appear on signs and explanations.
To visit Ise, take a train to Ise-shi Station in Mie Prefecture and follow the pilgrim route from Geku to Naiku. Allow a full day, and wear comfortable shoes for the gravel paths. Photography is prohibited in the area in front of the main sanctuary of Naiku, and the rule is strictly enforced, so look for signs and follow the instructions of staff. At shrine entrances, bow slightly at the torii (gate), walk to the side of the path rather than the center, and rinse your hands at the water basin.
Takachiho is in the mountains of Miyazaki Prefecture, and it is best to plan transport ahead of time. Check official tourism sites for current access, opening times, and any special events. Whatever shrine you choose, a respectful and quiet manner is the best way to enjoy the stories of the sun goddess.