Updated October 15, 2026 | By Tokyo Paul
An izakaya is one of the most enjoyable ways to spend an evening in Japan: a casual pub where friends and coworkers share small plates, raise a glass and linger. For first-time visitors, the format can feel unfamiliar, with a surprise appetizer, dishes arriving in waves and a bill settled at the register. This guide draws on japan-guide.com, Time Out Tokyo, the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) and Wikipedia to explain how an evening works, so you can relax and enjoy it.
Japan-guide.com describes izakaya as casual drinking establishments, similar to tapas bars, where diners share several small dishes. They are common around train stations and entertainment districts and range from single-counter spots to multi-story chains. Wikipedia explains that the name combines iru, meaning to stay, and sakaya, meaning sake shop, reflecting origins in sake shops where customers could sit and drink. Time Out Tokyo calls izakaya Japan's answer to the pub and groups them into large chains, small family-run places and upscale venues that often have private dining rooms.
Wikipedia also notes that izakaya were traditionally informal places for after-work drinking, and that modern customers include a broader mix of people, including independent women and students. In other words, you are in good company whether you arrive solo, with a partner or as part of a group.
Time Out Tokyo offers some fun clues for reading an izakaya from the outside: a smoky charcoal smell suggests skewers, a sake barrel or cedar ball hints at a wide sake and snack selection, and a fish painting points to good seafood. Wikipedia mentions the akachochin, or red lantern, a nickname for izakaya that usually refers today to small, non-chain places. Large chains such as Torikizoku, which Time Out says appear at many train stations, can be a convenient first stop because they are easy to find and often have approachable menus. Check each venue's current menu, language support and hours before you go.
Time Out Tokyo suggests saying "sumimasen" when you enter, holding up fingers to show your party size, and waiting to be shown to a table unless staff gesture otherwise. Japan-guide.com adds that you will usually receive an oshibori, or moist towel, and JNTO's etiquette guide says to use it to wipe your hands only. Some places also ask you to remove your shoes, according to japan-guide.com, with lockers or a shoe cabinet near your seat, and toilet slippers are often provided. A friendly reminder from the same source: leave the toilet slippers in the washroom.
Japan-guide.com also says that on crowded weekends some izakaya limit stays to about two hours, so it helps to plan your evening around that possibility. If you want certainty, ask when you are seated.
Within minutes of sitting down, a small appetizer often appears. This is the otoshi, and Time Out Tokyo explains that it is added automatically to the bill, usually a few hundred yen per person, in return for a small dish after your first drink. Japan-guide.com says it usually replaces a seating charge, and JNTO's etiquette guide stresses it is a table charge rather than a free gift. JNTO's drinking guide mentions examples such as edamame, pickles or potato salad, and notes you cannot substitute it.
Wikipedia adds a regional note: the dish is called otoshi in the Tokyo area and tsukidashi in the Osaka-Kobe area. Think of it as part of the experience, a small bite that starts the evening. Amounts vary, so look at the menu or ask staff for the current charge.
Ordering in rounds is the heart of the izakaya rhythm. Japan-guide.com says you do not need to order everything at once, and that ordering in several rounds is customary. Food arrives as it is prepared, so dishes may come out at different times. JNTO adds that in groups, dishes are shared and ordered gradually, so coordinate to avoid over-ordering.
Start with drinks: Time Out Tokyo suggests "toriaezu, nama kudasai" for a draft beer to begin. Japan-guide.com notes that many diners start with beer or a non-alcoholic drink.
Let staff choose: Time Out suggests the phrase "ryori wa omakase shimasu" to leave the food choices to the kitchen.
Set a budget: Time Out shares a way to add "made ni onegai shimasu" after an amount, such as "sanzen-en made ni onegai shimasu" for 3,000 yen.
Get attention politely: Japan-guide.com says to say "sumimasen" or press the call button if your table has one. Traditional izakaya may not have buttons.
Finish with carbs: Japan-guide.com notes that diners often finish with a rice or noodle dish, and Wikipedia mentions ochazuke and yakisoba as common closers.
Time Out Tokyo lists typical dishes that make a great starting lineup, and Wikipedia and japan-guide.com echo the same favorites:
Yakitori: grilled chicken skewers.
Edamame: boiled, salted soybeans in the pod.
Karaage: deep-fried chicken.
Sashimi: the day's catch, sometimes as a moriawase platter.
Hiyayakko: chilled tofu with ginger and bonito flakes. Wikipedia also lists agedashi tofu.
Kakifry: deep-fried oysters, per Time Out.
Japan-guide.com adds that drinks commonly include beer, sake and shochu.
JNTO's guide to drinking the Japanese way explains that gatherings should begin with a toast, and that drinking before everyone has toasted is considered poor manners. Among friends it may be just a simple kanpai, or cheers. The same source describes pouring as a sign of respect and camaraderie: pour for others, keep friends' cups topped up, use both hands where appropriate, and avoid pouring your own drink. It is a lovely custom to join, and if you prefer not to drink alcohol, japan-guide.com confirms a non-alcoholic drink is a normal way to start.
Some izakaya offer nomihodai, an all-you-can-drink plan. Japan-guide.com says these plans start around 2,000 yen for 90 to 120 minutes, while Wikipedia says time limits are usually two or three hours. Time Out Tokyo also mentions tabehodai, all-you-can-eat, and tabenomihodai, a combination, and says they offer the best value if you drink a lot, quickly. Terms and prices differ by venue, so confirm the details when you order.
According to japan-guide.com, most items cost a few hundred yen each, and a typical meal runs 2,000 to 5,000 yen per person. Prices change, so treat this as a rough planning range.
When it is time to settle up, japan-guide.com says izakaya often keep a running tab at the table, as a bill or a token, which you take to the cash register near the exit. At smaller or traditional places, staff may total it when you ask. Time Out Tokyo notes that bills are usually not split unless you request it at the start, that groups often divide the total evenly, and that guests who arrive late or leave early typically pay roughly for their own drinks plus the otoshi. Bring some cash for groups, as Time Out suggests, and check which cards are accepted. JNTO also reminds diners that tipping is not expected in Japan, and japan-guide.com suggests saying "gochisosama deshita" when you leave.
Wikipedia reports that izakaya are exempt from an indoor smoking ban passed by the National Diet in July 2018 and fully enforced from April 2020. Rules and venue policies can vary, so if smoke is a concern, ask about seating or check the restaurant's information before you go.
Say "sumimasen" at the door and show your party size with your fingers.
Expect an otoshi charge of a few hundred yen per person.
Order a drink first, then a few shared dishes, and add more as you go.
Wait for the toast before taking a sip.
Pay at the register near the exit, and finish with a thank-you.
Japan National Tourism Organization: Drinking the Japanese Way
Japan National Tourism Organization: Japanese Customs and Etiquette