Dewa Sanzan: Yamagata's Sacred Mountains

Three peaks, one pilgrimage and a mountain faith that still trains white-robed practitioners in the forests of Tohoku.

Published October 18, 2026 at 8:52 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Dewa Sanzan means the Three Mountains of Dewa: Haguro, Gassan and Yudono, in Yamagata Prefecture. They are the center of Shugendo, a mountain faith whose practitioners are called yamabushi. Visitors can climb the 2,446 stone steps of Mount Haguro, stay in pilgrim lodgings and eat vegetarian shojin ryori. Gassan's summit shrine is open only in summer.

Three mountains, one pilgrimage

Dewa Sanzan is the collective name for Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono, which rise in the Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture in northern Honshu. For more than a thousand years, the three peaks have been treated as a single sacred site, and pilgrims have traveled from far away to visit them. Each mountain is said to represent a different stage of life: the present, the past and the future, according to the traditional teaching. Today, the mountains are protected areas and also active places of worship. The Dewa Sanzan Shrine is associated with all three peaks, and its main hall stands on the summit of Haguro.

Because the sites span a wide area, visitors often choose one or two mountains rather than trying all three in a single trip. Planning ahead makes the experience calmer and more rewarding. Some pilgrims still complete a circuit of all three mountains, wearing white clothing and carrying a staff as an expression of devotion. Casual visitors are welcome to follow in a simpler way, perhaps by walking up Haguro, then visiting Yudono by bus, and leaving Gassan for a future summer trip. Even a short visit gives a sense of the mountains' atmosphere.

Shugendo and the yamabushi

The traditions of Dewa Sanzan are bound up with Shugendo, a path that blends elements of Buddhism, Shinto and older mountain worship. Practitioners are called yamabushi, which can be translated as those who lie down in the mountains. They train through walking, fasting, meditation and ritual, based on the idea that spending time in a rugged landscape purifies the mind and body.

Yamabushi are recognizable by their white robes, small black caps and conch shells, which they sometimes blow as signals. Visitors may meet them on the trails or at ceremonies. Several lodging temples offer introductory programs for ordinary travelers, which can include early morning chanting, a mountain walk and simple meals. Check each program page for requirements and reservation advice, and be ready to follow the guidance of your hosts.

Mount Haguro and the stone steps

Mount Haguro is the easiest of the three to visit and the usual starting point. A well-known approach starts at the Zuishinmon gate and descends into a valley before climbing 2,446 stone steps through a forest of ancient cedar trees, some of which are said to be hundreds of years old. A five-story pagoda stands in the woods near the beginning of the path and is designated a national treasure.

The climb takes roughly an hour or a little more at an easy pace, ending at the summit shrine area, where a large thatched-roof hall stands. Buses also run to the top for those who prefer to walk down or skip the steps. Wear shoes with good grip, since stones can be mossy and slippery after rain. The poet Matsuo Basho visited this region in 1689, and the path is associated with his travel diary, Narrow Road to the Deep North.

Gassan and Yudono

Mount Gassan is the highest of the three and has a shrine at its summit. Because heavy snow covers the mountain for much of the year, the summit area is usually open only during a short summer season, roughly July to September. Hikers should check the official page for current conditions and trail guidance before planning a climb. Mount Yudono is regarded as the most sacred of the three.

Its shrine is unusual because its focus is a large rock formation kept warm by natural hot spring water. Visitors take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the wet rock as part of the ritual, and photography is not allowed in the sacred area. The experience is simple and quiet, and the rules are posted at the entrance. Follow staff instructions carefully.

Pilgrim lodgings and shojin ryori

Near the foot of Haguro, a small village called Toge has traditional pilgrim lodgings known as shukubo. Many are family-run and have hosted travelers for generations. Staying overnight in one gives a sense of the daily life of the region, with tatami rooms, shared meals and an unhurried pace.

The food served is typically shojin ryori, a vegetarian style of cooking derived from Buddhist practice. The meals often feature wild mountain vegetables, called sansai, as well as tofu, seasonal produce and pickles. Flavors are subtle, and presentation is simple but attractive. Let your host know of any dietary needs when you book, and arrive before dinner time, as meals are served at set hours.

Getting to Dewa Sanzan

The usual gateway is Tsuruoka, a city in the Shonai region. From Tokyo, travelers typically take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Niigata and then a limited express train north to Tsuruoka. Alternatively, a flight to Shonai Airport or a train from Yamagata brings you to the area. From Tsuruoka Station, buses run to Haguro, with additional services during the summer season.

Because the mountain bus network is limited, check timetables before you go and consider staying overnight. A rental car adds flexibility but is not essential if you plan around the buses. In winter, roads to higher areas close, and Gassan is inaccessible. Local tourism offices can provide up-to-date maps and advice.

Eating nearby, etiquette and practical tips

Tsuruoka has been designated by UNESCO as a City of Gastronomy, reflecting its strong food culture. Local specialties include dadachamame, a variety of edamame harvested in late summer, as well as fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan and vegetables from the region. Rice and sake are also produced here. Nearby, the Shonai region offers castle ruins, a museum of local history and hot spring towns. If you have time, the coast has pleasant beaches and sunsets over the sea.

A flexible plan with a day on the mountain and another day exploring Tsuruoka is comfortable. Always confirm opening hours of museums and restaurants beforehand. Treat the mountains as sacred places. Walk quietly, bow slightly at gates, and keep to the paths. Many trails pass through forest and can be wet or muddy, so wear sturdy shoes. Carry water, a rain jacket and snacks, especially for longer hikes. Weather changes quickly in the mountains, even in summer. Insects can be present in warm months, so bring repellent. Respect any areas where photography or entry is restricted.

If you join a yamabushi program, follow your guide's instructions and ask questions politely. A humble, curious attitude is the best way to appreciate this place. Time your visit around the season. Late spring and early summer bring fresh green leaves and cool air, autumn adds colorful foliage, and winter shuts many high routes. Haguro can be walked in most months when snow is not heavy, though icy steps are slippery and need care. A small flashlight is handy if you plan to be on trails near sunset.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Dewa Sanzan?

Dewa Sanzan is the name for three sacred mountains in Yamagata Prefecture: Haguro, Gassan and Yudono. They are a center of Shugendo, a mountain faith practiced by yamabushi, and have been pilgrimage destinations for over a thousand years. Visitors usually start with Haguro, which is the easiest to reach.

How many steps are there on Mount Haguro?

The main approach has 2,446 stone steps through an ancient cedar forest. The climb takes roughly an hour or more at a relaxed pace. Buses run to the summit if you prefer not to climb, so you can choose to walk up or down.

When can you climb Mount Gassan?

Gassan's summit is usually accessible only in summer, roughly July to September, because of heavy snow in other seasons. Check the official information for current trail conditions before planning a hike. Haguro and Yudono can be visited in many other seasons, though winter weather and snow limit access.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Yamagata Prefecture Travel Guide, Yoshino: Nara's Cherry Blossom Mountain and Mount Mitake and Oku-Tama: Tokyo's Mountain Side.