Hagoita-Ichi: Asakusa's Battledore Fair

Visit Asakusa's year-end Hagoita-Ichi, where Senso-ji Temple fills with decorated New Year paddles, kabuki portraits and cheerful shopkeepers.

Published October 17, 2026 at 10:30 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Hagoita-Ichi is a battledore fair held at Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, from December 17 to 19. Stalls sell decorated wooden paddles used in the New Year game of hanetsuki and treasured as good luck charms.

A Fair of Painted Paddles

Every December, the grounds of Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, turn into a lively marketplace of color. Rows of stalls display hagoita, ornamental wooden paddles decorated with glamorous figures, and shoppers wander among them with an air of festive excitement. The event is called Hagoita-Ichi, or the battledore fair, and it is one of the best-loved sights of Tokyo's year-end calendar. This guide explains what a hagoita is, where the custom comes from, what to look for among the stalls, and how to plan a comfortable visit.

The fair is held from December 17 to 19 each year, as the old year winds down and the New Year approaches. It combines a historic temple, a craft tradition and a seasonal shopping trip in one memorable outing. Even visitors who have no plan to buy anything can enjoy the spectacle, the sounds of shopkeepers and the sparkle of gold leaf in the winter light.

What a Hagoita Is

A hagoita is a wooden paddle, originally used to hit a shuttlecock in hanetsuki, a traditional New Year game that resembles badminton. The shuttlecock was traditionally made from soapberry seeds and feathers. Hanetsuki was especially popular with women and children during the New Year holidays, and it is still played in some places as a nostalgic pastime.

Over time the paddle took on a second life as a good luck charm. Playing hanetsuki is believed to drive away evil spirits, partly because the motion of batting the shuttlecock calls to mind the Japanese word harau, which means to drive away. For this reason, hagoita came to be given to girls as a gift wishing them health and happiness. Many families treat a decorated paddle as an ornament that brings protection to the home throughout the year.

Hagoita are said to have arrived from Ming dynasty China during the Muromachi period, and they later became popular gifts and collectibles. In the Edo period and the Meiji period many styles appeared, some decorated with gold leaf and silver foil. The luxurious ones are made for display rather than for play, and they can be admired much like small works of art.

Oshie: The Art of Raised Cloth Pictures

The most celebrated hagoita are decorated in a technique known as oshie, which means raised cloth picture. In this craft, artisans cut washi paper or cloth into shapes, pad them with cotton and press them onto the paddle to create a three-dimensional portrait. The result has a soft, sculpted look, with elaborate robes, delicate faces and shining accessories. Each piece takes patient handwork, and you can see the craftsmanship in the folds of the costumes.

In the Edo period, oshie hagoita often featured made-up kabuki actors, who were the celebrities of their time. Kabuki is Japan's classical theater form, famous for its dramatic costumes and bold makeup, so the pictures translate beautifully into cloth. Early designs focused on stars of the stage, and even today you can see actors in famous roles. Modern stalls also show subjects drawn from movies, television, sports and other parts of popular culture, as well as traditional New Year motifs such as pine, plum and bamboo.

The range of sizes is part of the fun. Some paddles are small enough to fit into a bag, while others are very large and stand like pieces of sculpture. Prices vary widely with size and craftsmanship, so there is something for most budgets, from simple souvenir paddles to heirloom pieces. As a visitor you are welcome to look, and watching a customer and a shopkeeper talk over a purchase is part of the charm.

Senso-ji and the Fair's Long History

Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo, dedicated to Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion. According to tradition, two fishermen found a statue of Kannon in the Sumida River in the year 628, and a temple grew up around it. Visitors enter through the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate, which is famous for its giant red lantern, and then walk along Nakamise-dori, a shopping street about 250 meters long lined with souvenir and sweet shops. Beyond it stands the Hozomon, a two-story gate that leads into the temple complex.

The battledore fair has a long history here. Selling decorated hagoita at temple fairs became a popular custom during the Edo period, and the market at Senso-ji grew to be the most famous. Accounts differ on exactly how far back the fair goes, but its roots stretch back several centuries. A Swiss envoy named Aime Humbert is recorded as having seen it in 1863 and described it in a book published a few years later, which shows how long the fair has attracted attention.

As a year-end fair, the event has a special meaning. It marks the passing of the old year and the start of the new, and the hagoita are bought as lucky charms for the coming months. When you stand in front of the temple gate and see lanterns, stalls and paddles, you are looking at a scene that has welcomed generations of Tokyo residents each December.

Planning Your Visit

The fair is held on the temple grounds from around 9 in the morning until the evening, with exact hours varying, so it is wise to check the official information before you go. Roughly fifty or more shops line the area in front of the temple, with craftspeople and sellers from various places showing handmade pieces. Crowds are heaviest in the afternoon and early evening, and mornings, especially on the first or last day, tend to be quieter. If you like to photograph the paddles in comfort, a morning visit is a good choice.

Asakusa is easy to reach by subway and train, and it is within walking distance of Sumida River scenery and traditional shops. December is cold in Tokyo, so wear a warm coat, scarf and comfortable shoes, and bring cash in case a stall prefers it. Allow time to visit the main hall and say a short prayer, and keep your behavior respectful since this is an active place of worship. Photography is generally welcome in public areas, but ask before taking close-up pictures of people.

When you buy a hagoita, ask the shopkeeper how to display it and how to care for it. Many people hang or stand the paddle in an entrance or living room. If you hear a sudden burst of rhythmic clapping, it may be the shopkeepers celebrating the sale of a particularly expensive piece, a charming tradition that adds to the energy of the fair. For a lighter souvenir, smaller paddles or decorative items are a good option for travelers with limited luggage space.

Quick Takeaways

Hagoita-Ichi is the battledore fair held at Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa from December 17 to 19, when stalls sell decorated wooden paddles used in the New Year game of hanetsuki. The paddles are cherished as good luck charms, said to drive away evil spirits, and the finest are decorated with raised cloth pictures of kabuki actors, famous figures and seasonal motifs. The fair has a long history stretching back several centuries and remains a favorite way for Tokyoites to prepare for the New Year.

Go in the morning for fewer crowds, dress warmly, and take your time admiring the craftsmanship. Combine the visit with a walk through the Kaminarimon gate and along Nakamise-dori for a perfect day of old Tokyo. Whether you buy a paddle or simply enjoy the scene, you will take home a vivid memory of Japan's year-end spirit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a hagoita?

A hagoita is a wooden paddle used to hit a shuttlecock in hanetsuki, a traditional New Year game similar to badminton. Decorated versions are kept as ornaments and lucky charms, and the finest are made for display rather than play.

When is the Asakusa Hagoita-Ichi held?

The fair is held every year from December 17 to 19 on the grounds of Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa. Crowds are heaviest in the afternoon and early evening, while mornings tend to be quieter, so check official hours.

Why are kabuki actors on hagoita?

In the Edo period, oshie hagoita were decorated with raised cloth portraits of made-up kabuki actors, who were the celebrities of the time. Today designs also include other famous figures and traditional New Year motifs.

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