Hakodate: Night Views, Morning Market Seafood and Hokkaido's Southern Port

At dusk, the city of Hakodate turns into a ribbon of light. From the summit of Mount Hakodate, the narrow strip of land between the bay and the Tsugaru Strait glows gold and white as the sky fades through orange to deep blue. This view has been ranked among the best night views in the world, and it is often the first thing travelers hear about when they plan a trip to southern Hokkaido.

There is much more to the city than its lights. Hakodate was one of the first Japanese ports opened to the wider world, and it still carries that history in its churches, warehouses and a star-shaped fort. It also has one of Japan's best seafood markets and an easy rail link from Tokyo. This guide explains what to see, what to eat and how to time a visit.

A Port That Opened Early

Hakodate is a port city of about 240,000 people, the third largest in Hokkaido. American ships surveyed the harbor in 1854 under the agreements that followed Commodore Perry's arrival, and the port opened fully to foreign trade on June 2, 1859, alongside Yokohama. Foreign merchants, diplomats and missionaries settled on the slopes of the Motomachi district, and their influence is still visible in the city's architecture.

The harbor was also the setting for a short and memorable chapter near the end of the shogun era, when Enomoto Takeaki and his followers established the Republic of Ezo in 1869 with Goryokaku as their headquarters. Today that history can be explored at Goryokaku and in the city's museums, and it gives Hakodate a different flavor from the rest of Hokkaido.

The Night View From Mount Hakodate

Mount Hakodate rises 334 meters above the city, and the view from the summit is regarded as one of the world's top three night views, often named alongside Naples and Hong Kong. It also earned three stars in the Michelin Guide for Japan. The best-known sight is the glittering curve of the city along the bay, with the dark water of the strait and the mountain ridges beyond.

The ropeway takes about three minutes from base to summit, with seasonal hours that generally run until 9 p.m. or 10 p.m., depending on the time of year. Check the official schedule. Twilight lasts roughly 15 to 20 minutes after sunset, the moment when the sky still holds color while the city lights come on, so arrive before sunset to secure a spot at the railing. Private cars cannot use the scenic road after dusk, and tripods are not allowed on the observation deck.

Hakodate Morning Market

The Morning Market, called Asaichi, is about a one-minute walk from JR Hakodate Station. It is open daily, from 5:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. between May and December and from 6:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. between January and April. About 250 stores sell seafood, dried fish, vegetables from Hokkaido growers and prepared dishes, and admission is free.

Squid is the city's signature fish, and the market is considered the home of squid fishing experiences, with tank fishing offered in one section. Kaisendon, a rice bowl topped with fresh seafood such as sea urchin and salmon roe, is the standard breakfast, and the Donburi Yokocho section collects restaurants serving these bowls. Not every stall accepts credit cards, so bring cash. Visit early for the best selection, and use the coin lockers in the market for your bags.

Goryokaku: Japan's Star Fort

Goryokaku is a star fort shaped like a five-pointed star, designed by the scholar Takeda Ayasaburo in 1855 after he studied European fortifications. The shape allowed more gun placements and fewer blind spots than a traditional Japanese castle. The Tokugawa shogunate built it to help guard the Tsugaru Strait, and it was completed in 1866 after nearly seven years of work.

It became the capital of the short-lived Republic of Ezo, and in June 1869 it saw the final battle of the Boshin War, which brought the Boshin War to a close and opened the way for the new Meiji government. Most buildings were removed afterward, and Goryokaku became a park in 1914 and a Special Historic Site in 1952. A partial reconstruction of the magistrate's office was completed in 2010, and an observation tower built in 2006 gives a clear view of the star-shaped design. In spring, cherry trees along the moat make it a favorite for blossom viewing.

Motomachi: Slopes, Churches and Sea Views

Motomachi is the old foreign quarter on the hillside below Mount Hakodate. Its most famous street, Hachimanzaka, runs straight down toward the harbor, and the view with ships and sea at the bottom is one of the most photographed in the city. The name comes from Hakodate Hachimangu Shrine, which stood at the top until it was moved after the Great Fire of 1880.

Nearby are the Former British Consulate, the Motomachi Catholic Church and the Hakodate Orthodox Church. The Orthodox church, built in the Byzantine style in 1916, stands on a site connected to the first purpose-built Orthodox chapel in Japan, consecrated in 1860 at the Russian Consulate. The area is easiest to reach by the city tram to Suehirocho, about a minute on foot from the stop. In winter, the slope is lit as part of the Hakodate Winter Festival.

Down at the waterfront, the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses and the Hakodate Dock area form the Bay Area, a cluster of historic brick buildings turned into shops, restaurants and event spaces. It is an easy stroll from Motomachi and a pleasant place to watch the light change over the harbor. On the outskirts, the Trappistine Abbey is another reminder of the city's long international connections. A city tram runs through the main sightseeing areas, and a one-day tram pass is available if you plan several stops.

Eating Well in Hakodate

Seafood tops the menu: sushi, squid prepared in many ways and kaisendon, but also shio ramen, a clear salt-flavored noodle soup that is the local specialty. The Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses by the harbor have shops and restaurants, and the Motomachi area has cafes and restaurants in the older buildings. Western-style dishes, including curry and burgers, are common in the district's older restaurants.

A relaxed itinerary might include breakfast at the market, a morning at Goryokaku, lunch in Motomachi and the night view from the mountain. Book ahead for dinner during peak seasons.

Hakodate is compact enough that many travelers cover its highlights in two days. A first day can cover the Morning Market, the Bay Area and Motomachi, ending with the night view from the mountain. A second day can add Goryokaku, a hot spring bath or a longer lunch, and a spare half day is useful in case bad weather hides the view on the first evening.

Getting There and Timing

The Hokkaido Shinkansen opened on March 26, 2016, running through the Seikan Tunnel under the Tsugaru Strait to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station. The fastest trip from Tokyo takes just under four hours. The station is about 17 kilometers from central Hakodate Station, so allow time for the connecting train. Flights from Tokyo and other cities also land at Hakodate Airport.

Summer is cool and pleasant, with long daylight hours that push the night view later. Autumn brings fine weather and fall color, and winter brings snow and illuminations, though it is cold, so dress warmly for the mountain. Spring blossoms arrive later than in Tokyo, usually around late April to early May. Wear comfortable shoes for slopes, and check current ropeway hours before going.