Ikaho Onsen: The Stone Steps Hot Spring Town

A mountain town in Gunma where inns, shops and bathhouses line a single long staircase, with two very different kinds of spring water.

Published October 18, 2026 at 9:45 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Ikaho Onsen is a hot spring town on the slope of Mount Haruna in Gunma Prefecture, built around a long central stone staircase of several hundred steps. Visitors walk up past inns, sweet shops and small bathhouses to a shrine at the top, and can bathe in reddish iron-rich water or clear water. Allow a half day for the stroll and an overnight stay for the full onsen experience.

A town organized around one staircase

Most hot spring towns spread along a river or a main road. Ikaho Onsen climbs a hillside instead, and the whole layout follows a long stone staircase running up the middle of the town. The steps number in the hundreds, and they are broad and shallow enough that most visitors manage the climb without trouble. Inns, souvenir shops, snack counters and small bathhouses sit on both sides, so the staircase works as a main street that happens to go uphill.

The stone stairway has been part of the town for several centuries, and its basic pattern has been kept even as buildings around it were rebuilt. That continuity gives Ikaho a compact, walkable character. You do not need a car to see the best of it. Park or arrive by bus near the bottom, then spend an unhurried hour or two moving upward, stopping wherever a shop front or steam vent catches your eye.

Two waters, two colors

Ikaho is known for two quite different kinds of spring water. The older source produces a brown to orange-red water, often called the golden water, which gets its color from iron that oxidizes once the water meets air. Soaking in it leaves a faint rusty tint on towels and bath edges, which is normal and a sign of the mineral content. Many traditional inns in the center of town use this water.

The second source is a clearer, nearly colorless water, sometimes described as silver, that was added to the town's supply in more recent decades to serve newer facilities, including outlying inns and public baths. Visitors who like to compare can book one inn of each kind or try a day-use bath for each. Mineral content, temperature and feel differ, so check each facility's posted notes on who should avoid long soaks, and drink water before and after bathing.

What to do on the climb

The classic activity is simply walking, and the staircase rewards a slow pace. Shops along the way sell onsen manju, small steamed buns with sweet bean filling, often fresh and warm, which pair well with a cup of tea during a rest. You will also see old-style game parlors, craft stalls, and shopfronts selling local specialties from Gunma, such as konnyaku products. Some bakeries and cafés have added modern takes on the same snacks.

Near the upper part of the stairs, a small public bath stands right on the route, and it is a handy option if you are only visiting for the day. At the top, Ikaho Shrine marks the end of the climb, with a small viewing area where you can look back over the town and the Kanto plain on clear days. The shrine is a good place for a quiet pause before heading back down.

Getting there from Tokyo

Ikaho lies in the Gunma Prefecture mountains to the northwest of Tokyo, and the usual approach is by train to the city of Shibukawa or to Takasaki, followed by a local bus up the mountain road. From central Tokyo, the combined trip commonly takes around two to three hours, depending on the connection you choose. Direct highway buses and limited services sometimes run in peak seasons, so check current schedules before setting out.

Bus timetables on the final leg can be sparse, especially in the evening and in winter, so it helps to plan your arrival and departure around them rather than leaving it to chance. If you are staying overnight, many inns arrange pickups from the station or the bus stop, and they will often tell you the best time to arrive on the day you book. Driving is also straightforward, with parking near the base of the stairs.

Seasons and local color

Spring brings fresh green to the surrounding hills, and the cool mountain air makes it a comfortable time for the staircase walk. Summer evenings in the mountains are often cooler than in Tokyo, which draws visitors escaping the lowland heat. Autumn color on the slopes of Mount Haruna is a highlight, and Ikaho is a popular stop for foliage viewing in the weeks when leaves turn.

Winter is the season many people associate with a hot spring stay, with steam rising from the baths and cold air making an outdoor soak feel especially good. Snow can fall in the mountains, so check road and bus conditions and pack warm layers, along with shoes that grip when stone steps are damp. Festivals and illumination events appear at various points in the year, and the local tourist association posts current dates.

Bathing manners and common mistakes

Onsen etiquette is simple but strictly followed. Wash and rinse thoroughly at the seated shower stations before entering the shared bath, keep your small towel out of the water, and tie up long hair. Swimsuits are not worn in traditional baths. Visitors with tattoos should check each facility's policy ahead of time, because rules vary, and some places offer private baths that avoid the question entirely.

A frequent mistake is scheduling too tightly. The pleasure of Ikaho comes from lingering, so avoid cramming it into a short stop between other destinations. Another is wearing slippery footwear for the stairs; sturdy soft-soled shoes make the climb easier and safer. Finally, rinse off after bathing in the iron-rich water only if your inn recommends it, since some advise leaving the minerals on the skin to soak in.

What to pair with a visit

Ikaho fits neatly into a wider Gunma trip. Visitors often combine it with Mount Haruna and its crater lake, Lake Haruna, which sits a short drive up the mountain and offers walks and views in warmer months. The region is also known for mizusawa-style udon, thick wheat noodles served chilled, and many travelers stop at a noodle shop on the way to or from the onsen town.

Another natural pairing is a stay at an inn with dinner included, where multi-course meals built around local ingredients and mountain vegetables are standard. If you have an extra day, other Gunma sights, such as the heritage silk mill at Tomioka or other hot spring towns in the prefecture, make for easy additions. Check each place's official site or the local tourist association for current opening times and seasonal events.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to walk the Ikaho stone steps?

The climb itself usually takes around fifteen to thirty minutes at a relaxed pace, but most visitors spend an hour or two once they stop at shops, snack counters and the public bath. The steps are broad and low, so the walk is manageable for many people. Wear shoes with good grip, especially after rain or snow.

Is Ikaho Onsen worth visiting as a day trip from Tokyo?

Yes, though it takes a long day because of the bus connection from the nearest main station. A day visit lets you walk the steps, try local snacks and use a public bath. Staying overnight is more relaxing and lets you enjoy an inn's evening meal and private soaking at a slower pace.

What is the difference between the golden and silver water?

The golden water is brown to orange-red from its iron content and has been used for centuries. The silver water is clearer and was developed later to supply additional facilities. Both are hot spring waters, but they look and feel different, so many visitors enjoy trying one of each during a stay.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Famous Onsen Towns Compared: Which Suits You, Tomioka Silk Mill: Japan's Meiji Industrial Heritage and Nozawa Onsen: A Ski Village With Public Baths.