Nagamachi: Kanazawa's Samurai Residence District

Earthen walls, stone-paved lanes and a small canal mark the old samurai quarter of Kanazawa, a free-to-wander district with a few historic houses to enter.

Published October 19, 2026 at 1:53 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Nagamachi is the old samurai residence district of Kanazawa, once part of the castle town of the Maeda family, lords of the Kaga Domain. Visitors can walk its earthen-walled lanes and canal for free, and pay separately to enter historic houses such as the Nomura family residence. Straw mats protect the walls from snow in winter.

A samurai quarter in a castle town

Kanazawa was built around its castle, and the warriors who served the Kaga Domain lived close by. The Maeda family ruled from Kanazawa Castle for roughly 290 years, and the domain's rating of about one million koku of rice made it the largest in Japan. A town that supported such a domain needed many retainers, and the city's tourism site describes Kanazawa's samurai culture as "sincere and strong."

The Wikipedia article on Kanazawa notes that by the late 17th century, over three-quarters of the city area was samurai housing. Nagamachi is one of the districts where that old arrangement can still be felt. The name is usually read as "long town" or "long street," which fits the narrow, straight lanes.

Today the area is a quiet residential and visitor district a short walk from the central Korinbo shopping area. Visitors should treat it as a living neighborhood, since people still live and work along the lanes.

Earthen walls and stone-paved lanes

The signature feature of Nagamachi is its earthen walls. These plaster-covered walls, called dohei in Japanese, line the lanes and once marked the boundaries of samurai compounds. They stand over stone-paved or cobbled paths, and many carry a small tiled roof along the top to shed rain. Together with gates and old trees, they create the look of an Edo-period street.

Many of the buildings behind the walls are later or restored, and the Wikipedia article on Kanazawa notes that most houses in the area are not original samurai houses, so the district is best enjoyed as a streetscape instead of a group of museum pieces. The walls and lanes are the main attraction, and they are free to look at at any hour.

The area is designated for the preservation of its traditional environment, which helps protect the character of the lanes. The city also treats whole streetscapes as heritage, and not only single buildings, a point stressed on the official tourism site.

Winter straw mats and the small canal

In winter, many walls in Nagamachi are covered with straw mats called komo, hung along the plaster to protect it from snow and freezing. The practice is known as komokake, and it turns the lanes into a distinctive sight in the colder months. It is usually seen from late autumn through the snowy season, though the exact dates depend on the weather and local schedules.

A small canal runs through the district. Tourism pages call it the Onosho Canal, and its water also feeds the garden at the Nomura residence. Kanazawa's historic waterways, which bring river water into the old town, supported daily life and gardens for centuries. A related canal system, the Kuratsuki Yosui, runs from the Nagamachi area toward Korinbo and passes cafes and restaurants.

A walk beside the water makes a pleasant contrast to the dry earthen walls. The sound of flowing water is part of the experience, especially on a quiet morning, and the canal gives the lanes a sense of life beyond the stone and plaster.

Houses you can enter

Two former residences are the best-known places to step inside. The Nomura family house is described in visitor information as the home of a family that served the Maeda over many generations in posts such as captain and magistrate. Highlights include a garden, carved woodwork and a tea room overlooking the garden, where visitors can have green tea and sweets. An attached museum shows swords and documents belonging to the family.

The Takada family house was the residence of a Kaga Domain warrior family. It is known for its restored nagayamon (a gate built into a row-house building) and a large garden with a circular design. Tourism descriptions call it an elegant place to see how samurai households arranged their grounds.

Admission to the district itself is free, but each house charges its own fee and sets its own hours and closing days. Check the current details with the tourism office or the facility before making plans, since these change.

Getting there and finding help

Kanazawa Station is about two and a half hours from Tokyo by bullet train on the fastest services, according to the city's tourism site. From the station, tourism pages suggest taking a city bus to the Korinbo stop and walking about five minutes to the district. The city is also easy to explore on foot once you arrive.

The district has a free rest house, the Naga-machi Buke Yashiki Rest House, with a lobby and restrooms. The official Visit Kanazawa guide says sightseeing volunteer guides stand by there, although the guiding is in Japanese only. Opening hours and the availability of guides may differ by season, so confirm locally.

Because the lanes are narrow and residential, a visit works best at an unhurried pace. Be considerate around private homes, keep voices low near people's gates and gardens, and follow any photography rules posted at the houses that are open to visitors.

Samurai households and the culture of Kaga

The lords of Kaga were known for their support of culture, particularly the tea ceremony, and the city's tourism site notes that the Maeda promoted cultural projects. A domain-run crafts studio inside the castle produced fine furniture and tea utensils for the feudal lords, which the same page describes as unusual in Japan. That mix of warrior discipline and refined taste shaped the households of the retainers as well.

A samurai residence in a castle town typically stood behind a gate set into the earthen wall, with a main house, working rooms and a garden. The Nomura and Takada houses show this pattern. Their gardens and tea rooms reflect a way of life in which martial duty and the arts sat side by side. Size and layout varied with the rank of the family, so no two compounds were identical.

For visitors, this context helps the walk make sense. The lanes mark the layout of a planned quarter where retainers lived close to the castle, ready to serve the lord. Seeing a surviving gate, wall and garden together makes that arrangement easier to picture than any map.

Making the most of a visit

Nagamachi pairs naturally with other nearby sights. Kanazawa Castle Park and Kenrokuen garden are within walking distance, and so is the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. A route that begins at the castle gate, passes through the samurai lanes and ends in the Korinbo shopping area works well for a half day.

Think about the season. Each season changes the look of the gardens and lanes, and winter brings the komo-covered walls, often with snow. Wet stone lanes can be slippery, so wear shoes with good grip, especially in winter.

Finally, remember that opening hours, fees and winter preparations can change from year to year. Use the city tourism site and the facilities' own pages for current information, and leave some time to simply wander without a fixed plan.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Nagamachi in Kanazawa?

Nagamachi is a historic district of Kanazawa where samurai families who served the Kaga Domain once lived. It is known for earthen walls, stone-paved lanes, a small canal and a few historic houses open to the public. Walking the district is free, though each house charges its own admission.

Why are the walls covered with straw in winter?

The straw mats, called komo, are hung over the earthen walls to protect the plaster from snow and freezing. The seasonal practice is called komokake. It is usually seen in the colder months, and it has become one of the area's most recognizable winter sights. The timing depends on the weather.

Can visitors go inside the samurai houses?

Yes, some former residences, including the Nomura family house and the Takada family house, are open to visitors. Each sets its own fee, hours and closing days. The Nomura house has a garden and a tea room, and an attached museum shows items from the family. Check current details before visiting.

Want to go deeper? Tokyo Paul's book Kanazawa Photo Book is available on Amazon.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Kanazawa Castle Park and Ishikawa Gate: Walls, Roofs and Lawns, Kanazawa's 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art: A Visitor Guide and Kenrokuen: Kanazawa's Garden of Six Attributes.