Kochia: The Round Red Autumn Hills of Hitachi Seaside Park

Learn what kochia is, how its soft green domes turn scarlet and gold in October, and how to reach Hitachi Seaside Park from Tokyo.

Published October 19, 2026 at 11:30 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Kochia, also called summer cypress, is an annual plant that grows into rounded, feathery mounds. At Hitachi Seaside Park in Ibaraki, the park says staff plant about 33,000 seedlings by hand each June. The foliage is bright green in summer, becomes greenish-red in early October, and reaches scarlet around mid-October before turning golden.

What kochia is

Kochia, known botanically as Bassia scoparia, is an annual plant of the amaranth family that is native to dry regions of Eurasia. It grows into a neat, rounded shape, which is why it is often planted in masses like green balls. In Japanese it is called hokigusa or hahakigi, names that mean broom plant, because dried stems were traditionally bundled into brooms.

The park's own description says its kochia is ornamental and produces nothing edible. Elsewhere in Japan, the plant's small seeds are a regional food called tonburi, sometimes nicknamed field caviar and associated with Akita Prefecture. At Hitachi Seaside Park, however, the plants are grown for color, and visitors come for the view rather than for food.

Why the hills change color

The color change is the main attraction. According to the park, summer kochia is bright green. In early autumn the foliage shifts toward green with a reddish tinge, and by October it has become bright scarlet. Late in the month the red softens into a golden tone before the plants die back with the cold.

The park lists approximate viewing periods: green kochia from mid-July to late September, a green-to-red gradient in early October, scarlet red in mid-October and gold in late October. The scarlet stage in mid-October is generally the highlight. Weather affects the timing each year, so check the park's official page for the current condition before traveling.

Miharashi no Oka and why it was planted

Miharashi no Oka means lookout hill, and the park's kochia field covers around 1.9 hectares of it. The park says staff plant approximately 33,000 seedlings by hand in June, each 10 to 15 centimeters tall. By autumn the seedlings have grown into the round shapes that give the hill its soft, rolling look. Because every seedling is set out by hand, the pattern across the slope is planned, and the rounded forms repeat in rows that follow the curve of the land.

The park explains that most of its trees are evergreen pines, which means there is little natural autumn color. Kochia was planted to supply that missing seasonal change. The national tourism organization uses a slightly different figure of about 32,000 plants, so the exact count is best treated as roughly 32,000 to 33,000. The hill is also the setting of the park's well-known spring flower display.

Getting there from Tokyo

Hitachi Seaside Park is in Hitachinaka City, Ibaraki Prefecture, northeast of Tokyo. The national tourism organization says Katsuta Station on the JR Joban Line is about 75 minutes from Shinagawa Station by train. From Katsuta Station's east exit, buses run to the park's West Gate in about 15 minutes and to the South Gate in about 20 minutes. A local railway line also serves the area.

A day trip is realistic from Tokyo, but trains and buses can be crowded on autumn weekends. Visitors who prefer to drive can use the Hitachi Seaside Park interchange, according to the tourism organization, and the same page gives the park's address in Hitachinaka City for a navigation system. An early start gives time to walk the hill in softer morning light and to see the rest of the park. Timetables, bus services and admission fees change, so check the official page for current details before leaving.

Combining kochia with nemophila and other seasons

The same hill that glows red in October is blue in spring. Nemophila, the small sky-blue flower often called baby blue eyes, typically blooms from mid-April to early May, and the national tourism organization says it covers about 4.2 hectares of the park. Tulips and cosmos also feature in other seasons, so check the park's calendar for the current year.

Anyone who wants to see both nemophila and kochia needs two visits in different seasons, because they bloom roughly half a year apart. Cosmos is another autumn flower at the park, and it can overlap with the kochia season, though the park's calendar is the place to confirm timing. The park has flowers in many months, so other times of year have their own interest.

Tips for visiting the autumn hill

Wear comfortable shoes, because the park is large with slopes and gravel paths. It also has cycling trails and a small amusement area with a Ferris wheel, according to Wikipedia, so a visit can easily last half a day. The park is near the coast, so conditions can be breezy, and a light jacket is useful. A hat or sunglasses help on bright days.

For photographs, the colors often look richest in soft morning or late afternoon light. Stay on the marked paths, because the plants are living displays and should be left undisturbed. Keep to the viewing areas, avoid blocking the walkway while taking pictures, and bring any rubbish away with you. Weekday mornings are usually quieter than weekend afternoons. Bringing water is sensible on a long walk, and the park's official map is worth checking before the visit to plan a route between the kochia hill and the other flower areas.

Related terms and ideas

Autumn color in Japan is usually associated with maple leaves, called momiji, and ginkgo trees, but kochia shows that red hills can come from a plant that is not a tree. The Japanese word koyo covers autumn leaf color in general and is the term used in seasonal forecasts. Kochia is treated more like a flower display than a forest view, and cosmos is another autumn flower in Japan's seasonal displays, so an October visit can include more than one color. The round mounds are easy to enjoy with family or friends, because the display is open and the walk around the hill can be done at an easy pace.

Other Japanese seasonal flower fields include nemophila in spring, sunflowers in summer and cosmos in autumn. Each is planted so that large numbers bloom together. A visit to Hitachi Seaside Park shows how a garden can use plants to mark the seasons across the year. This guide shares general information; rules change, so confirm details with the official agency or provider before you act.

Frequently Asked Questions

When does kochia turn red at Hitachi Seaside Park?

The park lists green foliage through late September, a green-red gradient in early October, scarlet in mid-October and gold in late October. The scarlet stage in mid-October is generally the highlight. Timing varies with weather each year, so check the park's official page before visiting.

How can visitors get to Hitachi Seaside Park from Tokyo?

Take a train on the JR Joban Line to Katsuta Station, about 75 minutes from Shinagawa Station according to the national tourism organization. From the east exit, buses reach the West Gate in about 15 minutes and the South Gate in about 20. Check current timetables.

Can you eat kochia?

The park says its kochia is ornamental and produces no edible products. In some regions of Japan, the plant's seeds are made into a food called tonburi, which is a specialty in Akita Prefecture. Those seeds are prepared separately and are not something to pick in a park.

Want to go deeper? Tokyo Paul's book Japan Cherry Blossom Photobook is available on Amazon.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Rose Gardens in Japan: Peak Seasons and Famous Gardens, Tulip Fields in Japan: Where and When the Spring Colors Peak and Hitachi Seaside Park: Fields of Blue Flowers.