Kumano Kodo: Japan's Ancient Pilgrimage Trails

Learn how to walk the Kumano Kodo: the Nakahechi route, three grand shrines, Nachi Falls, hot springs, UNESCO status and practical planning tips.

Published October 18, 2026 at 5:01 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage trails on Japan's Kii Peninsula leading to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004. First-time walkers usually choose the Nakahechi route, about 30 kilometers from Takijiri Oji to Hongu Taisha over two days.

For more than a thousand years, people have walked through the forested mountains of the Kii Peninsula to reach the sacred shrines of Kumano. Today the Kumano Kodo, a network of ancient pilgrimage trails in Wakayama Prefecture, invites modern walkers to follow the same mossy stone steps, cedar groves and ridgeline passes. It is a place where hiking, culture and spirituality meet, and where a day's walk often ends with a hot-spring bath and a home-cooked meal. This guide explains what the Kumano Kodo is, which routes to choose, what to see, and how to prepare for a comfortable and respectful pilgrimage.

What Is the Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo is a collection of old routes leading to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha. Pilgrims have used these paths for over a thousand years, and the travelers included commoners, samurai and emperors, often guided by mountain-ascetic monks. In the Heian period, imperial pilgrimages became a tradition, with Emperor Uda's journey in 908 considered the first, and the visit by Emperor Shirakawa in 1090 beginning a long run of imperial visits.

Along the way, small shrines known as oji marked stages of the journey, and travelers purified themselves at sacred sites before reaching the main shrines. In 2004 the trails were registered as part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range," along with Koyasan, Yoshino and Omine. The Kumano Kodo was the first road in Japan to receive World Heritage status.

Which Kumano Kodo Route Should You Choose?

The Nakahechi is the best-known and most popular route, the one historically used by travelers from Kyoto. It is also the best preserved and the easiest for first-time walkers, passing through hilly forest and traditional villages. The section from Takijiri Oji, near Tanabe, to Hongu Taisha is about 30 kilometers and can be walked in two days, with an overnight stop near Chikatsuya Oji, where a few small family-run guesthouses are located. The final descent to Hongu Taisha offers a view of its large torii gate.

Other routes are longer and more demanding. The Kohechi links Kumano with Koyasan and requires careful preparation, the Iseji connects Kumano with Ise Shrine, and the Omine Okugakemichi follows high ridges toward Yoshino. The Ohechi once followed the coast from Tanabe to Nachi Taisha. First-time walkers should begin with the Nakahechi, and anyone considering the others should research current trail conditions and the availability of lodging.

What Are the Three Grand Shrines?

Hongu Taisha is the spiritual center of the Kumano area and the shrine many pilgrims aim to reach on foot. The path here arrives through a series of gentle ridges, and the shrine grounds are calm and deeply rooted in the forest. Hayatama Taisha stands near the coast at the mouth of the Kumano River, and it is considered one of the three main shrines in the Kumano network.

Nachi Taisha is closely linked to Nachi Falls, a waterfall with a 133 meter drop that is described as Japan's tallest waterfall with a single uninterrupted fall. The kami Hiryu Gongen is believed to live in the falls, and a Shinto priest makes offerings to the waterfall each morning. A three-story pagoda stands beside the shrine's treasure hall, and the combination of shrine, pagoda and waterfall makes this a favorite stop for visitors who arrive by bus as well as on foot.

Where Can You Soak in Hot Springs?

Hot springs are part of the Kumano experience. The region has seven onsen areas, including Kawayu, Yunomine and Ryujin, and soaking after a long day on the trail is a cherished tradition. Yunomine Onsen is especially historic: its Tsuboyu bath was used by pilgrims for purification before reaching Hongu, and it is still a small, charming bath today.

Following onsen etiquette helps keep these places pleasant for everyone. Wash thoroughly before entering the bath, keep towels out of the water, and be mindful of quiet hours in small inns. Many guesthouses along the trail serve dinner and breakfast made with local ingredients, so you can enjoy a satisfying meal without carrying much food.

How Do You Plan a Kumano Kodo Walk?

Planning is simple if you use the official resources. The Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau offers route maps, model itineraries, bus timetables, weather information and a luggage shuttle service that moves your bags from one stop to the next. Accommodation and tours can be booked through the Kumano Travel reservation system. Because some guesthouses are small and fill up in popular seasons, book ahead and check route news for any closures before you set out.

Spring and autumn are generally the most comfortable seasons for walking, while summer can be hot and humid and winter requires warm layers. The trails are well marked but include stone steps and uneven ground, so wear sturdy shoes with good grip, carry rain gear and bring enough water. Start early, aim to reach your lodging before dark, and treat the shrines and waysides as sacred places by speaking softly and following posted guidance.

A light daypack is all most walkers need when luggage is forwarded. Useful items include a rain jacket, a change of socks, a small first-aid kit, a reusable water bottle, snacks, a headlamp for emergencies and some cash for small shops and buses. Walking poles can help on long descents, and a printed or downloaded map is a good backup because mobile signal in the mountains can be uneven. Take your time on the stone steps, which can be slippery when wet.

For those who like a special challenge, there is an option called the Dual Pilgrim. Since 1998, Wakayama has had a sister-road partnership with the Camino de Santiago in Spain, and walkers who complete both routes can receive a Dual Pilgrim certificate. It is a fun goal for long-distance walkers who enjoy both Spanish and Japanese pilgrimage traditions.

Getting to the trailhead is part of the planning. Tanabe, on the Kii Peninsula, is the usual gateway for the Nakahechi, and Takijiri Oji, the traditional starting point, lies just outside the central part of the city. Local buses connect the main stops, and bus timetables are published by the tourism bureau, so it is wise to build your schedule around them. Arriving the day before your walk gives you time to rest, pick up supplies and start fresh in the morning.

Quick Takeaways

The Kumano Kodo is an accessible way to experience ancient Japan on foot. Begin with the Nakahechi, plan two or more days, book lodging early, and use a luggage shuttle to lighten your load. Visit the three grand shrines, enjoy a soak in a hot spring, and let the forest set the pace.

With good shoes, a flexible mindset and respect for sacred places, you can have a walk that feels timeless and surprisingly welcoming.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need to walk the Kumano Kodo?

The classic Nakahechi section from Takijiri Oji to Hongu Taisha is about 30 kilometers and can be walked in two days, with an overnight stop near Chikatsuya Oji. Many visitors add more days to see Nachi Falls and soak in hot springs such as Yunomine.

What is the Dual Pilgrim program?

Wakayama has had a sister-road partnership with Spain's Camino de Santiago since 1998. Walkers who complete both the Kumano Kodo and the Camino can receive a Dual Pilgrim certificate. It is a popular goal for long-distance walkers, though the Kumano Kodo is worth walking on its own.

What are the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano?

They are Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha, the destinations of the Kumano pilgrimage routes. Nachi Taisha stands near Nachi Falls, which drops 133 meters. Hongu Taisha is the shrine most walkers aim to reach on foot along the Nakahechi route.