Kusatsu Onsen: Gunma's Famous Hot Spring Town
Explore Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma: the steaming Yubatake hot water field, yumomi performances, public baths, getting there from Tokyo and when to go.
Published October 18, 2026 at 4:32 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul
Quick answer: Kusatsu Onsen is a famous hot spring town in Gunma Prefecture, known for the Yubatake hot water field at its center and the yumomi water-stirring show. It takes under three hours from Tokyo by limited express train and bus.
Why Is Kusatsu Onsen So Famous?
Kusatsu Onsen is famous for its abundant, steaming, mineral-rich hot spring water and for the Yubatake, a hot water field that sits right in the middle of town. The resort lies in the mountains of Gunma Prefecture, about 1,200 meters above sea level, and the Japan National Tourism Organization notes that it receives the highest volume of free-flowing hot spring water in Japan. Visitors come to soak, stroll in a yukata (a light cotton robe) and watch clouds of steam rise beside the wooden channels.
This guide introduces the Yubatake, the traditional yumomi performance, the public baths and the little streets around them. You will also find a short history of the resort, simple access directions from Tokyo, seasonal ideas and etiquette tips for first-time onsen visitors. If you have never visited a Japanese hot spring town, Kusatsu is one of the most atmospheric places to begin.
What Is the Yubatake?
The Yubatake, which means hot water field, is the heart of Kusatsu and the town's best-known landmark. Water gushes from the main spring in large quantities and flows through long wooden channels, where it cools before moving on to inns and bathhouses. Along the way, a mineral deposit called yu no hana, or flowers of the water, forms on the wood, and it is gathered from the wood. The sight and smell of the steam, which carries a sulfur scent, tell you immediately that you have arrived.
The Japan National Tourism Organization describes the water at the Yubatake as about 55 degrees Celsius and highly acidic, so it is meant to be admired rather than touched. It also notes that several Tokugawa shoguns had the water carried to Edo castle in barrels. The area is attractive at any hour, and many visitors enjoy returning in the evening to see the steam again in a different mood. A short walk from the main bus terminal brings you to the field, making it an easy first stop.
What Is Yumomi and Jikan-yu?
Yumomi is a traditional method of cooling hot spring water by stirring it with long wooden paddles, and it is performed for visitors in Kusatsu. Wikipedia explains that the spring next to the Yubatake, called Netsu no yu, is cooled by this stirring ceremony, rather than by adding cold water. Performers sing the old work song Kusatsu-bushi as they swing the paddles, and visitors can watch the show at the Netsunoyu hall facing the Yubatake. Performances are given several times a day, so check the current schedule on the spot or on the tourism association website.
A related custom is jikan-yu, or timed bathing. According to a feature on Nippon.com, bathers stir the water with wooden boards to cool it, pour several buckets over themselves and then soak up to the neck for three minutes. The routine is a way to ease into very hot water. If you are curious, ask your inn or the tourism association about places where visitors can try it, and follow staff instructions carefully.
Which Public Baths Can You Visit?
You can visit a number of public baths and open-air baths around the town. The Gunma tourism site highlights Gozanoyu and Otakinoyu as traditional baths, and the Sainokawara Open-Air Bath as a large outdoor option set in a park. Sainokawara Park lies at the end of a pleasant lane from the Yubatake lined with souvenir shops and restaurants, and it also features steaming streams and a famous rock formation known as the Devil's Teapot.
Wikipedia adds that the town has small neighborhood bathhouses looked after by local residents, some of which are open to visitors, so ask about them at your accommodation. Many ryokan, or traditional Japanese inns, offer their own baths with the same famous water. Because the water is hot and strongly acidic, it is a good idea to follow the advice posted at each bath and avoid soaking longer than recommended. As of autumn 2026, bath hours and fees can vary, so check the official information before you go.
What Is the History of Kusatsu Onsen?
Kusatsu has been a bathing place for centuries. According to the Japan National Tourism Organization, samurai came to relax here as far back as the Muromachi period, between 1336 and 1573. Wikipedia mentions a legend that Minamoto no Yoritomo bathed here in 1193, and records that the resort grew in the Edo period. Local lore says the springs can cure every ailment except lovesickness, a charming saying that reflects the town's fondness for its water.
The resort became widely known abroad after Erwin von Balz, a German physician who taught medicine in Tokyo during the Meiji era, recommended the water for its benefits. Nippon.com also lists Kusatsu among Japan's three famous hot spring areas, along with Arima and Gero. Today the town honors its past with traditional architecture, old-style signs and a lively festival calendar, including the Flower Festival in May and the Hot Spring Appreciation Festival in early August.
How Do You Get to Kusatsu Onsen From Tokyo?
The easiest way is by limited express train and bus, which takes under three hours. Gunma's tourism guide recommends taking the Kusatsu-Shima limited express from Ueno Station to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station in about two hours and twenty minutes, then a JR bus to Kusatsu Onsen Bus Terminal in about 25 minutes. The Yubatake is a short walk of about six minutes from the terminal. All seats on the limited express are reserved, so book ahead.
Another option is the highway bus from Tokyo Station or the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal, which takes around four hours and includes a rest stop. The town has no train station of its own, since rail service ended in 1964 according to Wikipedia. Winters can be cold and snowy at this altitude, so pack warm layers, and check road and weather conditions if you are traveling by car. Spring to autumn is pleasant for strolling, and winter adds a snowy hot spring mood and nearby skiing.
The lanes around the Yubatake are a pleasure to explore on foot. The Japan National Tourism Organization mentions narrow alleys near the Netsunoyu hall with arts and crafts shops, including milky glass inspired by the waters, and suggests following a path to Sainokawara Park. Many visitors stroll in a cotton yukata and wooden sandals, stop for onsen manju (steamed sweet buns) and warm up with onsen tamago (eggs cooked in hot spring water). It is a slow, sensory kind of sightseeing that suits the town perfectly.
Quick Takeaways for Your Kusatsu Trip
Visit the Yubatake, watch a yumomi performance, soak in a public or inn bath and stroll the lanes in a yukata. Try local treats such as onsen manju, steamed sweet buns, and onsen tamago, eggs cooked in hot spring water. Plan to arrive by limited express and bus, book seats in advance and give yourself time to slow down.
Kusatsu rewards an overnight stay, because the steam, the lantern light and the sound of the flowing water feel especially magical in the evening. A night here is a gentle, memorable way to experience Japan's hot spring culture.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Yubatake in Kusatsu Onsen?
The Yubatake is the large hot water field in the center of Kusatsu, where spring water flows through wooden channels to cool before reaching inns and baths. It is the town's best-known landmark and a short walk from the bus terminal.
What is yumomi at Kusatsu Onsen?
Yumomi is a traditional way of cooling hot spring water by stirring it with long wooden paddles instead of adding cold water. Visitors can watch a performance at the Netsunoyu hall next to the Yubatake, so check the schedule.
How do you get from Tokyo to Kusatsu Onsen?
Take the Kusatsu-Shima limited express from Ueno to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station in about two hours and twenty minutes, then a JR bus of about 25 minutes. A highway bus from Tokyo or Shinjuku takes roughly four hours.
Further Reading
To explore more, the Visit Gunma page on Kusatsu Onsen introduces the Yubatake, yumomi and public baths, and the Wikipedia article on Kusatsu adds history, geography and festivals.
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More from Tokyo Paul: Kinosaki Onsen: A Hot Spring Town Made for Strolling, Dogo Onsen: Matsuyama's Ancient Bathhouse Town and Hanami Etiquette: Enjoying Cherry Blossoms Politely.