Walking the Nakasendo: Magome to Tsumago Through Edo-Period Post Towns

Four centuries ago, a traveler leaving Edo for Kyoto had two main choices: the coastal Tokaido or the inland Nakasendo, whose name means central mountain route. The Nakasendo ran about 534 kilometers through valleys and passes, lined with 69 post towns where travelers could sleep, eat and change porters. Parts of it are still walkable today, and the stretch between the villages of Magome and Tsumago is the best loved.

This guide explains the Nakasendo's history, how to walk from Magome to Tsumago, what the two preserved towns offer, and how to plan the trip with luggage forwarding, seasons and safety in mind.

The Road Between Edo and Kyoto

The Nakasendo was one of the Five Routes (Gokaido), the main highways administered by the Tokugawa shogunate to support its rule. It linked Edo (modern Tokyo) and Kyoto, passing through what are now Tokyo, Saitama, Gunma, Nagano, Gifu and Shiga prefectures. In 1716 the shogunate confirmed its official name. Post stations along the way offered lodging, food and horses, and the road was also used by daimyo (feudal lords) traveling to and from Edo under the sankin-kotai system, which required them to spend alternating years in the capital.

The road's character is captured in art. The woodblock print master Utagawa Hiroshige, who traveled the road in the 1830s, designed 46 of the 69 prints in a famous series on its stations, and Keisai Eisen created the rest. Many scenes show the quiet valleys and small inns that remain recognizable today.

Why the Kiso Valley Survives

Railways and highways eventually moved traffic elsewhere, and the Kiso Valley's post towns lost their roles. In the long run this helped preservation: with less development, old houses stayed standing. Three sections in Nagano and Gifu prefectures were designated National Historic Sites in 1987, and the best known stretch, between Tsumago and Magome, is about 8 kilometers long and takes two to three hours to walk at a relaxed pace.

The valley's reputation grew in the twentieth century, when residents chose to restore their towns rather than modernize. The result is a living museum in which families still run inns and shops, and the sound of footsteps on stone remains part of the day.

Magome: A Hillside Post Town

Magome is the 43rd of the 69 stations, about 326.7 kilometers from Edo, and is now part of Nakatsugawa in Gifu Prefecture. The town climbs a steep, stone-paved slope, with wooden inns, craft shops and cafes on both sides and views toward distant mountains. Fires in 1895 and 1915 destroyed many of the old buildings, and after railways bypassed the town it declined before being restored to its Edo-period appearance. A water mill is one of its charming sights.

Magome is also the birthplace of the novelist Shimazaki Toson, who wrote about the Kiso region in his historical novel Before the Dawn, and he is buried in the town's cemetery. A small museum in his honor tells the story of the region and the writer, and it is a good first stop before starting the trail.

The Trail From Magome to Tsumago

The route between the two towns is about 8 kilometers and takes roughly two to three hours. Walking from Magome to Tsumago involves slightly less uphill than the reverse direction, which is why most walkers start in Magome. The path alternates between forest tracks, stone steps, quiet roads and small hamlets, and it passes waterfalls and streams. About halfway, a traditional house serves tea and snacks beside an irori (open hearth), with old farm tools on display, and donations are encouraged.

The trail is well marked, but weather can change the conditions. Bring rain gear, water and snacks, and wear shoes with grip. In some areas, bells may be provided along the path so walkers can announce their presence to wildlife. Ring them as you pass; it is a simple courtesy and a safety habit. Stay on the marked path and take your trash with you.

Tsumago: Restored With Care

Tsumago, in Nagiso in Nagano Prefecture, was the 42nd station. Residents began restoring historic sites and structures in 1968, and by 1971 about 20 houses had been renovated. In 1976 the national government designated it a preservation site for traditional buildings. The honjin, the main inn for high-ranking travelers, was rebuilt in 1995, while the Okuya, the secondary inn (waki-honjin), is an original building that was named an Important Cultural Property in 2001. Both are open to visitors.

Walking the main street, you will see dark timber houses with lattice windows, deep eaves and small shops selling local crafts, sweets and noodles. The community works hard to protect the atmosphere, and the quiet streets are a result of that effort. Stop for a bowl of soba (buckwheat noodles) and enjoy the quiet.

What Travelers Needed on the Old Road

Understanding how the post system worked adds meaning to the walk. Each station kept a supply of porters and horses so that official messengers and traveling lords could move quickly, with goods and baggage passed on from one town to the next. Inns were ranked by purpose. The honjin housed the highest ranking guests such as daimyo, the waki-honjin acted as a backup, and ordinary travelers stayed in hatago, simple inns where meals and a bed were provided.

The Kiso Valley stations, set among steep mountains, also served as places to prepare for passes and changing weather. When you walk between Magome and Tsumago, you are following a stretch that officials, merchants, pilgrims and ordinary families all used, and the wooden signs, stone markers and mossy steps are reminders of a time when walking was how Japan moved.

Luggage, Buses and Transport

Carrying a large suitcase on the trail is a poor idea, but there is a simple solution. According to japan-guide, bags can be dropped off at either town's tourist information center in the morning and picked up at the other town's center in the afternoon, between roughly 8:30 and 11:30 for drop-off and 13:00 to 17:00 for pick-up, for a modest fee. The service has seasonal limits and details can change, so confirm in advance and reserve if possible.

Buses connect Magome and Tsumago, though direct buses are infrequent, so check the timetable. For access, most visitors travel on the JR Chuo Main Line to Nakatsugawa or Nagiso, then continue by bus or taxi, depending on the direction of the walk. A separate walk of about 3.5 kilometers links Tsumago to Nagiso Station through populated areas without preserved pavement.

Plan Your Visit

Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable walking, with cherry blossoms and fresh greens in spring and colored leaves in autumn. Summer is warm and humid, with afternoon showers, and winter can bring cold and snow to the mountains, so allow flexibility. Start in the morning to arrive in Tsumago before the shops close, and plan to stay overnight in a minshuku (family-run guesthouse) if you want to experience the towns after day visitors leave.

Bring cash, since small shops and guesthouses may not accept cards. Be respectful of residents: do not enter private property, keep voices low and ask before photographing people. With a light pack and an easy pace, the walk is a rewarding few hours that connects visitors with the road travelers used for centuries.