Nikko's Irohazaka Road and Autumn Colors

Plan a Nikko autumn trip along the Irohazaka winding road, with its 48 named curves, Kegon Falls, Lake Chuzenji and Akechidaira ropeway views.

Published October 16, 2026 at 9:38 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: The Irohazaka is a 15.8 kilometer road with 48 hairpin curves that links central Nikko with Lake Chuzenji. Autumn color generally peaks from mid-October on the upper sections to early November on the lower sections.

Forty-Eight Curves, One Famous View

When the leaves turn in Nikko, one road becomes the star of the season. The Irohazaka winding road climbs from the town of Nikko up to Lake Chuzenji in a series of 48 hairpin turns, and in late autumn those turns are lined with maples and other trees in shades of red, orange and yellow. Photos of the road, with its ribbon of curves threading through a colorful hillside, appear in travel features every year, which is why it keeps returning to the list of must-see autumn spots near Tokyo. This guide explains how the road works, where to stop for the best views, and how to avoid the busiest traffic.

The good news is that this is a very visitor-friendly destination. Whether you travel by bus, car or a guided tour, the road leads to some of Nikko's most scenic highlights, including a famous waterfall, a mountain lake and a ropeway with an observation deck. Let's take the journey step by step.

What Makes the Road Special

The Irohazaka is about 15.8 kilometers long and links central Nikko with the Lake Chuzenji area, rising roughly 440 meters along the way. It is actually two roads. The First Irohazaka is used for going down, and the Second Irohazaka is used for going up, so each direction is one-way and the experience is smooth and orderly. The 48 curves are each named after one of the characters of the iroha, an old Japanese syllabary arranged as a poem that uses every kana sound once. That naming gives the road a charming cultural touch, and many travelers enjoy spotting the character signs as they pass each bend.

Roads in this part of the mountains have a long history, because the paths to Nikko's high country were tied to the worship of Mount Nantai going back to the Nara period. Over the centuries, the area was opened and developed, and today the winding route is a free public road that carries buses, cars and sightseers throughout the year. In autumn, the foliage along its slopes is the main draw, and the combination of curves and color makes a striking sight from the viewpoints.

When the Leaves Change

Peak viewing along the Irohazaka generally runs from mid-October to early November. The upper sections near the lake usually peak first, in mid-October, while the lower sections closer to Nikko tend to reach their best in early November. This staggered timing is useful, because it means a trip can catch some color over a fairly wide window, and it also means the experience changes as you move up or down the slope. Lake Chuzenji sits at an elevation of about 1,269 meters, so its surroundings cool earlier than the town below.

Exact timing shifts from year to year with temperatures and weather, so check current foliage reports shortly before you travel. As of autumn 2026, it is also wise to confirm bus schedules, ropeway operation and any traffic notices on official local sites. Peak weekends are very popular, and traffic on the road can slow dramatically. A drive that normally takes about twenty minutes can stretch to two or three hours when the season is at its busiest, so an early morning start is the simplest way to enjoy a calmer experience.

Akechidaira, Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji

The best-known viewpoint is Akechidaira, located midway along the Second Irohazaka. From the bus stop there, the Akechidaira Ropeway carries visitors up to an observation deck in a short ride. The ropeway opened in 1933 and is about 300 meters long, and the deck offers views of Kegon Falls, Lake Chuzenji and the cone of Mount Nantai, with the colorful hillside spread out below. It is a rewarding stop even for those who plan to spend only an hour or two.

Kegon Falls drops about 97 meters in a single plunge from the outflow of Lake Chuzenji, and it is one of the most famous waterfalls in the country. It is listed among Japan's top 100 waterfalls, and the roar of the water is a highlight in its own right. Lake Chuzenji itself formed roughly 20,000 years ago, when an eruption of Mount Nantai blocked a river, and it covers about 11.6 square kilometers. The shoreline gleams with maple color in season, and in the past several European embassies built vacation houses along its banks, a charming slice of history that visitors can still explore at a restored former villa.

It is also worth lingering by the water. Lake Chuzenji lies in Nikko National Park, and its shoreline is a pleasant place for an unhurried walk once you reach the top of the road. The lake sits at a higher elevation than the town, so it tends to cool earlier in the season, and the reflections of colored hillsides on the surface make a peaceful contrast to the busy road below. Many travelers plan their day so that they ride up for the views, spend a relaxed hour or two at the lakeside, and then head back down in the afternoon.

Getting There and Moving Around

For most travelers, public transport is the easiest option. Buses leave from JR Nikko Station and Tobu Nikko Station toward Chuzenji Onsen and Yumoto Onsen, and the ride to the Akechidaira stop takes about 40 minutes in normal conditions. Because the Irohazaka is one-way in each direction, buses use the roads in the same pattern as cars, and long lines during peak days are common. Many visitors combine the trip with Nikko's famous shrines and temples in the town center, which makes a full and satisfying day.

If you drive, plan for patience in peak season and consider parking in town to continue by bus where possible. Cycling is also allowed on the road for experienced riders, though the steep grade and the autumn traffic mean it is best suited to confident cyclists. Wear comfortable shoes for the walking around Akechidaira and the lake, pack a warm layer because the high ground is cooler than the town, and bring a camera with a charged battery. Lines at viewpoints can be long, so give yourself extra time and enjoy the atmosphere. Free Wi-Fi is available at the Akechidaira Ropeway, which is handy for checking bus times and weather updates.

Quick Takeaways

The Irohazaka is a 15.8 kilometer road with 48 curves, split into a descending first road and an ascending second road, and it links Nikko to Lake Chuzenji. The best foliage typically runs from mid-October at the higher sections to early November in the lower sections. Akechidaira Ropeway offers a lovely view of the falls, lake and mountain, while Kegon Falls and the lakeshore make excellent companions. Start early, expect crowds on peak weekends, and keep your schedule flexible.

The road is a memorable reminder that in Japan, even the journey can be a sightseeing highlight. The curves, the colors and the sweeping views come together in a way that feels special. With a little planning and a relaxed attitude, you can soak up the colors, the curves and the mountain air, and leave with a camera full of beautiful pictures.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is the Irohazaka road called by that name?

Its 48 hairpin curves are each named after a character in the iroha, an old Japanese syllabary arranged as a poem. The road is split into two one-way roads, with the First Irohazaka used for going down and the Second Irohazaka used for going up.

How can I avoid heavy traffic on Irohazaka in autumn?

Start early in the morning, since a drive of about twenty minutes can stretch to two or three hours at the busiest times. Taking a bus from JR Nikko or Tobu Nikko Station is another option, though buses also face the same queues on peak days.

What is there to see at the top of the road?

Akechidaira has a ropeway to an observation deck with views of Kegon Falls, Lake Chuzenji and Mount Nantai. Kegon Falls drops about 97 meters in a single plunge, and Lake Chuzenji offers lakeside walks with colorful hillsides reflected in the water.

Further Reading

To explore more, the Lake Chuzenji article on Wikipedia and the Kegon Falls article are good next stops for background on the destinations at the top of the road.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Daisetsuzan: Where Japan's Autumn Colors Begin, Oirase Gorge: Aomori's Mossy Autumn Stream and Eikando and Tofukuji: Kyoto's Famed Autumn Temples.