Susuki: Pampas Grass and Autumn Moon Viewing

Silver plumes sway on hillsides and riverbanks each autumn, and for centuries they have stood beside offerings to the harvest moon.

Published October 19, 2026 at 1:12 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Susuki is Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus), often called pampas grass in English, though botanists treat the two as different plants. Its feathery plumes appear in autumn and are one of the traditional seven flowers of autumn. Households have long displayed susuki beside dumplings during moon-viewing in September or October, and fields such as Sengokuhara in Hakone draw crowds.

Susuki or pampas grass: a note on the name

Visitors to Japan often call the tall, feathery grass they see in autumn "pampas grass," and the nickname is understandable. In strict botanical terms, though, the grass in the Japanese countryside is susuki, a species of Miscanthus native to East Asia. True pampas grass, which belongs to a different genus, comes from South America and has been planted in some Japanese parks. The two look alike from a distance, and the confusion is harmless.

Susuki can grow to about two meters tall and forms dense clumps. Its plumes are silvery brown when they first open and turn pale gold and then white as the seeds mature. The leaves have sharp edges, so people usually enjoy the grass from a distance or along paths. Another traditional name is obana, meaning "tail flower," a reference to the shape of the plume.

A flower of the autumn seven

Susuki is one of the aki no nanakusa, the seven flowers of autumn, a set of plants that has been cited in Japanese poetry for more than a thousand years. The group includes bush clover (hagi), kudzu, dianthus, patrinia, thoroughwort and balloon flower, with susuki, also called obana, completing the set. Writers used the list to express the sense of the season, and the plume's silver gleam became a symbol of autumn light.

The seven flowers continue to appear on kimono patterns, tea-ceremony arrangements and seasonal sweets in autumn. Susuki is a favorite of flower arrangers because of its graceful line and its ability to last for days when cut. Haiku poets also use susuki as an autumn season word, which is why the plant turns up so often in short poems about the wind. Look for it in shop windows from September, often paired with bush clover or red persimmon branches, in a way that signals the change of the season.

Tsukimi and the harvest moon

The strongest cultural link is with tsukimi, the custom of moon viewing. On the night of the full moon in the eighth lunar month, which usually falls in September or early October, families set out a display facing the moon. It usually includes round white rice dumplings (tsukimi dango), seasonal produce and a vase of susuki. Why susuki? One common explanation is that the plumes resemble ears of rice, and offering them was a way of honoring the harvest and inviting good fortune.

Another view is that the sharp-edged leaves were thought to ward off evil. These explanations vary by region and household, so it is best to treat them as traditional beliefs rather than fixed rules. The result is a simple, graceful scene that you can recreate at home with a small vase. If you want to try the custom yourself, set the display by a window or on a balcony where the moon is visible, and arrange the dumplings in a neat pyramid. Many households eat the dumplings afterward, sharing the blessing of the harvest.

Famous fields to visit

One of the best-known susuki fields in Japan is Sengokuhara in Hakone, southwest of Tokyo. The grassland stretches across a gentle slope, and in autumn the plumes glow gold in late afternoon light. The peak is generally from late October to mid November, but timing varies, so check local tourist information. A walking path runs through the field, and the area is popular with photographers.

Other regions also have grass-covered highlands that turn silver in autumn. Many parks, river embankments and hillsides across Japan feature natural stands of susuki. Highland areas in Nagano and Gunma are popular for autumn walking, and the grasslands around Mt. Aso in Kyushu are another well-known setting. If you do not want to travel far, a local riverbank at sunset can offer a very similar view.

Getting to Sengokuhara and the Hakone area

Hakone is reached from Shinjuku by the Odakyu Romancecar to Hakone-Yumoto, or by Shinkansen to Odawara and then a transfer. From Hakone-Yumoto, the Hakone Tozan railway and buses climb into the mountains. Sengokuhara is reached by bus from Hakone-Yumoto or Gora, and the ride takes roughly 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic and route. Autumn weekends are busy in Hakone, and roads can be congested. If you can, travel on a weekday or early in the morning.

Many visitors purchase a regional pass that covers trains, buses and some attractions, though the options change over time. Check the current offerings on the Hakone tourist association website before buying. If the weather turns cold or foggy, remember that the mountains of Hakone can change within an hour. A windproof layer, comfortable walking shoes and a warm drink will keep the visit pleasant. The nearby hot spring inns are a natural way to end the day, and many accept day visitors for a bath.

Autumn light, photography and etiquette

Susuki looks best in low light, close to sunrise or sunset, when the plumes become translucent and glow gold. Backlit plumes against a dark hillside can look dramatic. A telephoto lens compresses the layers of grass, while a wide lens captures the field's scale. Wind adds movement, so shoot a few frames to catch the best shape. Respect the plants and the people who care for them. Stay on marked paths and do not cut or pick the grass, as it is part of the landscape and sometimes managed for conservation.

Some grasslands in Japan are periodically burned or mown by local groups to keep them healthy. Take your rubbish with you, and be mindful of other visitors when taking pictures. Early morning also brings dew on the plumes, which sparkles in side light. Bring a lens cloth, wear shoes with grip for damp ground, and keep a polite distance from other photographers so everyone can enjoy the view.

Food, souvenirs and home displays

Autumn food pairs naturally with susuki. Tsukimi dango, white rice dumplings stacked in a pyramid, are sold at sweet shops in the weeks before the full moon. Tsukimi udon and soba come with a raw or soft egg on top to represent the moon, a seasonal menu item at many noodle shops. Chestnut sweets and Japanese pear are other signs of the season.

If you want to display susuki at home, florists and some supermarkets sell stems in autumn. Place them in a tall vase with a few sprigs of bush clover for a classic look. Keep the display simple, and let the plumes' soft color do the work. Many people add a small tray of dumplings and sit by a window on the night of the full moon.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is susuki the same as pampas grass?

Not exactly. Susuki is Japanese silver grass, a Miscanthus species native to East Asia. True pampas grass belongs to a different genus and comes from South America. They look similar from a distance, and in casual English both are often called pampas grass.

When is the best time to see susuki?

The plumes are usually at their best from late September through November, depending on altitude and region. Sengokuhara in Hakone often peaks from late October to mid November. Check local tourism reports for the current year. Build some flexibility into your plans in case the schedule shifts.

Why is susuki used for moon viewing?

Susuki plumes resemble ears of rice, so offering them is a way to honor the harvest and invite good fortune. Some traditions also say the grass wards off bad luck. Together with dumplings, it is a classic part of tsukimi displays.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Japan in September: Typhoon Season and Early Autumn, Nanohana: Rapeseed Fields of Early Spring and Hakone in 2 Days: The Loop Route.