Riding the Shinkansen: Tickets, Train Types, Luggage Rules and Seat Tips

On October 1, 1964, shortly before the Tokyo Olympics, the Tokaido Shinkansen began service between Tokyo and Osaka. The bullet train cut the trip from roughly six hours and forty minutes by conventional limited express to about three hours and ten minutes on the early Hikari trains. It became a symbol of postwar Japan, and it remains one of the most comfortable and punctual ways to travel anywhere in the world.

Riding it for the first time is simple once you know a few rules. This guide explains the train types, how to buy tickets, the difference between reserved and unreserved cars, luggage rules, the best seat for views of Mount Fuji, and the tradition of the ekiben, the station box lunch.

Why Travelers Love the Bullet Train

The Tokaido Shinkansen runs at up to 285 kilometers per hour, and newer lines run faster: the Tohoku line reaches 320 km/h. The latest trains on the Tokaido line, the N700S, debuted in 2020 as a 16-car evolution of earlier models. Stations are in the city centers, so there is no airport transfer, and boarding takes only a few minutes before the train glides out of the station.

Punctuality is famous. JR Central reported an average delay of only 24 seconds per train in 2016, a figure that included delays from natural disasters. Trains depart on the minute, doors align with marked boarding positions on the platform, and announcements are made in Japanese and English. Network expansion continues too, with the Hokuriku line extended to Tsuruga in March 2024.

Nozomi, Hikari and Kodama

On the Tokaido and Sanyo lines, trains come in three speeds. Nozomi is the fastest and stops only at major stations; the quickest Tokyo to Shin-Osaka run takes 2 hours 21 minutes, with 2 hours 28 minutes the average. Hikari is a limited-stop service that takes a little longer, while Kodama stops at every station and is the slowest. On other lines, names differ: Hayabusa on the Tohoku line, Kagayaki on the Hokuriku line, and Sakura and Mizuho on the Sanyo and Kyushu lines.

Pick the train that fits your destination. If your stop is a smaller station such as Mishima or Shin-Fuji, a Hikari or Kodama may be the train you need. Check a timetable app or the station display board, because train names appear alongside the departure time and platform number.

How to Buy Tickets

You can buy Shinkansen tickets at staffed ticket counters, at ticket machines and online. A fare combines a base fare, a limited express supplement and a reservation fee, with Green Car adding its own charge. Have the number of travelers, date, stations, car type and seat type ready; writing them on paper helps if you do not read Japanese. Reservations normally open one month before departure.

For the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu lines, SmartEX is an online reservation service that works before you arrive in Japan. Registration is free, and it requires a credit card. You can then board with a QR ticket, a paper ticket or a registered IC card (a prepaid transit card) touched to the gate, while the fare is still charged to your credit card. Many travelers find it quicker than queuing at a counter.

Reserved, Unreserved and Green Car

Most Shinkansen have both reserved and non-reserved cars, shown on platform signs and ticket displays. Reserved seats guarantee a place, while non-reserved seating is first come, first served and costs slightly less. Hayabusa, Hayate, Komachi, Tsubasa and Kagayaki trains are fully reserved, and Nozomi becomes fully reserved during New Year, Golden Week and Obon, the three biggest holiday travel periods.

Green Car is the first-class option. Seating is 2+2, with more room and usually fewer passengers, and every seat is reserved. Not every train has a Green Car. On Nozomi and Hikari, Green Car passengers can order drinks and snacks from their seats with a mobile service. If you are traveling in a group, reserve seats together in advance rather than relying on the non-reserved cars.

Luggage Rules

Each traveler may bring up to two pieces of luggage, each under 30 kilograms and no more than 250 centimeters when you add height, width and depth together. Bags up to 160 centimeters in total can go in overhead racks, under seats or in storage areas on the train without any special arrangement.

On the Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu Shinkansen, a bag with a total of 161 to 250 centimeters is considered oversized. Since May 2020, you must reserve a seat with an oversized baggage area, which sits behind the last row, or pay a 1,000 yen surcharge for bringing the bag without a reservation. Bags over 250 centimeters are not allowed. Baby strollers, musical instruments and sports equipment are not subject to the size rule. If your bag is large, the LUGGAGE EXPRESS delivery service can send it ahead to your hotel.

Seat Tips and the Mount Fuji View

On the Tokaido Shinkansen, the best seat for Mount Fuji heading from Tokyo toward Osaka is E in a standard car (D in the Green Car), on the right side. Fuji comes into view about 46 to 48 minutes after leaving Tokyo and stays visible for roughly three minutes. The closest, fullest view runs between Mishima and Shin-Fuji. Heading from Osaka to Tokyo, Fuji is on the left, and Seat E is still the best choice.

Seats can be rotated 180 degrees, so groups can turn them to face each other. In non-reserved cars, line up at the painted lanes on the platform. Clear skies in winter and early morning offer the best views, since summer haze often hides the mountain.

Ekiben: The Station Box Lunch

Ekiben (station bento) are boxed meals sold at stations and on trains, and many travelers consider them a highlight of the trip. The first sale is generally believed to have been in 1885 at Utsunomiya Station, where the earliest versions were simple rice balls. Himeji Station was among those offering a standard meal with rice and side dishes by 1888.

Today, stations sell regional specialties. Makunouchi bento, with rice, pickled plum, salmon and rolled omelet, is the classic. Other examples include ikameshi (squid stuffed with rice) from Mori in Hokkaido and masuzushi (pressed trout sushi) from Toyama. Food carts are no longer offered on the Tokaido and Sanyo lines, so buy your meal before boarding.

Etiquette and Practical Tips

Keep conversations quiet and set your phone to silent. Take calls in the vestibule between cars, not at your seat. Recline gently, and do not block the aisle with bags. Food is welcome, but keep odors mild and take your rubbish with you.

If you hold a JR Pass, check the current terms: historically, passes did not cover the supplement for Nozomi and Mizuho trains. Check the platform number, board at the numbered position and give yourself a few minutes in a large station like Tokyo or Shin-Osaka. The station staff will help if you ask politely.