Staying at a Ryokan: Tatami, Yukata and Kaiseki Dinner

What to expect at a Japanese ryokan: check-in, tatami rooms, futon, yukata, hot spring baths, kaiseki dinner and simple etiquette for a relaxed first stay.

Published October 18, 2026 at 3:14 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn with tatami rooms, futon bedding, hot spring baths and usually a multi-course kaiseki dinner. Guests wear a provided yukata robe, take off shoes at the entrance, and rates are normally quoted per person with meals.

A night at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, is one of the most memorable ways to experience the country's hospitality. You slip off your shoes, step onto soft tatami mats, change into a cotton robe, soak in a hot spring bath and then sit down to a beautiful multi-course dinner. If you have never stayed in one, the customs can seem like a puzzle, but they are really a gentle routine that staff are delighted to guide you through. This guide covers what a ryokan is, how the rooms work, how to wear a yukata, what kaiseki is, and the small manners that make a stay smooth.

What Is a Ryokan?

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, usually built around comfort, seasonal food and hot spring bathing. The Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) describes ryokan as potentially the oldest form of hotel in the world, with roots said to reach back to the 8th century, and Wikipedia notes that inns also served travelers along Japan's old highways. You can find ryokan throughout the country, in cities such as Kyoto and in hot spring towns, from mountain valleys to seaside resorts.

Unlike a typical business hotel, a ryokan is about the whole experience: the architecture, the room, the bath, the dinner and the morning breakfast. Many are small and family run, and staff aim to look after you as a guest in a home. Wikipedia also mentions Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan, said to date to the year 705 and often described as the oldest hotel in the world, which gives a sense of how long this style of hospitality has been practiced. Some modern ryokan blend traditional design with contemporary comforts, so you can pick a style that suits your taste.

If a full ryokan feels like too much, JNTO's accommodation guide also describes minshuku, family-run guesthouses in resort and tourist areas that are typically cheaper than ryokan. They share much of the same charm, with tatami rooms and home-style meals, and are a good way to try the style on a smaller budget.

What Is a Ryokan Room Like?

Rooms are built around tatami, flooring made of woven straw mats, and JNTO's accommodation guide describes a typical room as a single undivided tatami space. Shoes come off at the entrance, where slippers are usually provided, and you step onto the tatami in your socks or bare feet (slippers are taken off before stepping on the mats). There is often a low table with cushions, a view of a garden and sometimes a private bath.

Beds are futon, thick bedding laid directly on the tatami. Wikipedia explains that staff, often called nakai, move the table aside and lay out the futon while guests are out of the room. This is why a ryokan can seem to transform from a sitting room into a bedroom with no effort on your part. Mornings reverse the process, and staff fold the bedding away.

How Do You Wear a Yukata?

A yukata is a light cotton robe provided by the inn. Wikipedia describes it as an unlined summer kimono, originally worn as a bathrobe, and notes that inns in hot spring towns supply them for guests. Many guests wear their yukata around the inn, to the bath and sometimes on a short stroll outside, and JNTO says you can also wear geta or zori sandals to walk around the grounds. The inn will tell you what is appropriate where you are staying.

One practical point is to ask the front desk whether wearing a yukata is welcome in the restaurant, the lobby or outdoors, because customs differ by inn. Inns in hot spring towns often encourage a stroll in yukata, while more formal ryokan may prefer you dress for dinner. Warm weather and cool evenings can also change what feels comfortable, so keep a light jacket handy if the inn provides one.

To put it on, wrap the left side over the right, then tie the obi, the sash, at your waist. Left over right is the standard way for all kimono. Most inns provide different sizes, and staff are happy to help if you are unsure. Treat it like comfortable lounge wear and enjoy the sense of occasion.

What Is Kaiseki Dinner Like?

Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course meal made from seasonal and regional ingredients, and it is the highlight of many ryokan stays. According to Wikipedia, the form has roots in the simple meal served before a tea ceremony and has been shaped by imperial court, Buddhist temple, samurai and tea traditions. Typical courses include a small starter, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, soup, rice and dessert, and plates are chosen to match the season.

JNTO notes that meals are served either in a communal dining hall or in your room, and that a ryokan stay usually includes a Japanese breakfast the next morning. Some inns offer stays without meals, so check when you book. Because each dish is timed for freshness, Wikipedia advises guests to be punctual. Tell the inn about allergies or dietary needs well in advance, since menus are often planned ahead.

What Is the Etiquette for Baths, Check-In and Tipping?

Most ryokan have an onsen or communal bath, usually separated by gender, and some offer private baths. The usual onsen customs apply: wash thoroughly first, keep towels out of the water and follow the posted instructions. Staff will explain the bath schedule and how private baths are reserved. If your inn is in a hot spring town, ask what time baths are open and which are available.

Arrive on the check-in time you agreed with the inn so staff can prepare your room and meal. Rates are usually quoted per person and often include dinner and breakfast, as JNTO's accommodation guide explains, so the price can look higher than a standard hotel but covers a lot. As of autumn 2026, policies on meals, tattoos and check-in vary by inn, so check the property's official site before you go. Traditional inns in rural areas may also not offer Wi-Fi, so ask at booking if it matters to you.

As for tipping, none is required. Japan has a custom called kokorozuke, a small gratuity given from the heart, and Wikipedia's Tip Project article notes that gratuities have mainly been given to highly personal staff, such as those at ryokan, usually in an envelope. It is entirely optional, and many guests simply say a sincere thank you. If you do decide to give something, hand it over discreetly in an envelope.

Quick Takeaways

Leave your shoes at the entrance, enjoy the tatami and futon, wear the yukata with the left side over the right, and be on time for dinner. Soak in the bath after washing, and thank the staff warmly. Book early for popular seasons and check meal times and bath rules in advance.

A ryokan stay is a slow, beautiful break from busy sightseeing. Take your time, savor each course and let the quiet rhythm of the inn carry you.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a ryokan?

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. Rooms have tatami flooring and futon bedding, most have an onsen bath, and a stay usually includes a kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast. The Japan National Tourism Organization says the form has roots in the 8th century.

How do I wear a yukata correctly?

Wrap the left side over the right and tie the obi sash at your waist. Left over right is the standard way to wear all kimono. Inns provide yukata and staff can help if you are unsure.

Do you tip at a ryokan?

No tip is required. A custom called kokorozuke exists, a small gratuity given in an envelope, but it is optional. A sincere thank you to the staff is perfectly welcome, appreciated and entirely enough for a pleasant stay.