Takamatsu: Ritsurin Garden and Udon Culture

Shikoku's gateway city pairs a grand strolling garden with bowls of chewy local noodles served in a delightfully casual style.

Published October 18, 2026 at 10:31 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Takamatsu is the main city of Kagawa Prefecture on the island of Shikoku. Its highlights are Ritsurin Garden, a large Edo-period strolling garden set against a forested hill, and Sanuki udon, the thick, chewy noodles that Kagawa is famous for. It is reached by train over the Seto Ohashi bridge, by ferry, or by air.

Getting to Takamatsu and getting around

Takamatsu lies on the northern coast of Shikoku, facing the Seto Inland Sea. Most rail travelers come from Okayama, riding a rapid train across the Seto Ohashi, a long bridge system that links Honshu and Shikoku, with views of small islands along the way. Flights from Tokyo and other cities arrive at Takamatsu Airport, and ferries run from nearby ports and from island destinations such as Naoshima and Shodoshima.

Once in the city, the central area is compact. Takamatsu Station sits close to the waterfront and the castle park, and local trains and the Kotoden private railway link the center with Ritsurin Garden and surrounding towns. Buses and rental bicycles are also useful. Because Kagawa is the smallest prefecture in Japan by area, most sights are within an easy ride of each other, which suits a short stay.

Ritsurin Garden: design and history

Ritsurin Garden was developed over roughly a century in the Edo period by the local ruling family. It rests at the foot of Mount Shiun, whose wooded slope forms a dramatic backdrop, a clear example of borrowed scenery. The garden is often described as having six ponds and thirteen artificial hills, arranged so that each turn along the path reveals a new composition of water, stone and carefully shaped pine trees.

The scale is notable. Instead of a tight, enclosed space, Ritsurin spreads across a large area, divided into a southern section in the traditional strolling style and a northern part with a more modern, open layout. The garden is a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, one of the highest designations in Japan. Travel writers have praised it for years, and it remains a main reason people stop in Takamatsu.

Walking the garden: what to look for

Start by crossing the ponds near the entrance, then follow the route toward the tea house on the southern pond. The Kikugetsu-tei tea house sits at the water's edge, and visitors can usually enjoy matcha and a sweet while looking at the view. The pines are trimmed in distinct shapes, many tended by gardeners using traditional techniques, and the care is visible in every branch.

Walk slowly and pause at the bridges, since the viewing angles are carefully chosen. A climb up a modest hill gives a wider look at the layout. Boat rides on the pond are sometimes offered, which gives a view from the water. Opening times shift with the season, and special evening illuminations are held on some dates in spring and autumn. Check the garden's official site for current hours, fees and event information.

Udon culture: why Kagawa is called Udon Prefecture

Kagawa is nicknamed the Udon Prefecture, and the noodle is part of everyday life. Sanuki udon, named after the old province, is known for a firm, springy texture, achieved by kneading the wheat dough carefully and cutting thick noodles. The region has plenty of wheat-growing land and access to salt and soy sauce, historical ingredients that helped the dish develop.

Eating udon here is more casual than visitors from abroad may expect. Many shops are no-frills, with simple counters and a quick turnover. Some are tiny, and a bowl can be finished in minutes, so many locals eat udon for breakfast or as a light snack. Plenty of travelers plan a mini udon tour, trying two or three shops in one day, with small portions at each. Tourism offices often provide udon maps and guidance.

How to order at a self-service udon shop

Many popular shops use a self-service system. You order at the counter, choosing hot or cold noodles and a portion size, and the staff hands you a bowl. Then you move down the line, adding toppings such as tempura, fried tofu or a soft egg. At the end, you pay, then use condiments on the side: chopped green onions, grated ginger, sesame seeds and a ladle of broth if you ordered noodles dry.

A few phrases help. A common order is "kake" for noodles in hot broth, "bukkake" for noodles with concentrated broth poured over, or "kamaage" for noodles served in their hot cooking water. Slurping is normal and encouraged. Return the tray to the designated spot when you finish, if the shop asks. Check opening hours in advance, as many udon shops open early and close in the afternoon once the noodles sell out.

Other things to see and eat

Takamatsu Castle, also called Tamamo Castle, sits on the waterfront and once drew seawater into its moat, an unusual feature. Today it is a park with gardens and a view of the harbor. Yashima, a flat-topped plateau east of the city, offers a panoramic outlook and ties into medieval history. Takamatsu also has covered shopping arcades, among the longest in Japan, filled with stores and restaurants.

For other tastes, try hone-tsuki dori, bone-in roast chicken, a local specialty that is crisp and savory. Wasanbon, a refined local sugar, is used in delicate sweets that suit tea. Olive products from nearby Shodoshima appear in shops and cafes. If you have extra time, Kotohira-gu, a shrine popularly called Konpira-san, is within reach by train, with a long stairway to its main hall. Many travelers also use Takamatsu as a launch point for art islands.

Best seasons and practical tips

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for strolling through the garden. Azaleas and cherry blossoms color the grounds in spring, and maples glow in autumn. Summer can be hot and humid, so go early, wear a hat and drink water. Winter is mild compared with northern Japan, and the pines appear crisp against clear skies. Rain can also be lovely, as pond reflections soften.

Bring cash for small udon shops, and be ready for lines at popular spots, especially at lunchtime on weekends. Because the shops vary in quality and style, ask locals or the tourist information desk for current recommendations. In the garden, stay on the path and avoid feeding the koi unless feed is sold on site for the purpose. Pair the day with a coastal walk or a ferry trip to enjoy the Inland Sea.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you get from Okayama to Takamatsu?

The most direct way is the rapid train across the Seto Ohashi bridge, which links Okayama and Takamatsu in about an hour. Some travelers also take a bus or a ferry. The rail ride has scenic views of the Inland Sea, so sit by a window if you can. Check schedules on the railway operator's website.

Is Ritsurin Garden worth a visit?

Yes. It is among the larger and more admired Edo-period strolling gardens in Japan, with ponds, bridges, hills and well-tended pines, set against Mount Shiun. A visit takes about one to two hours, longer if you stop for tea. It is easy to reach from central Takamatsu by train or taxi.

What is the best way to enjoy Sanuki udon?

Try several shops in small portions rather than one large bowl, so you can compare textures and broths. Order simply the first time, perhaps a plain hot bowl, to taste the noodles themselves. Add toppings like tempura or green onions if you like. Arrive early, since some shops close once they sell out.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Kotohiragu: The 785 Steps of Shikoku's Konpira Shrine, Awaji Island: Hyogo's Island Between Honshu and Shikoku and Okayama: Korakuen Garden and the Black Castle.