Tokyo is one of the largest cities on earth, yet within its train loops are gardens that began as the private estates of shoguns and feudal lords. Some still have tidal ponds fed by the sea, stone bridges built for poets' walks and teahouses where visitors sip matcha beside skyscrapers. Others, such as Ueno Park and Yoyogi Park, grew from temple land and Olympic history into the city's favorite open spaces.
This guide introduces six of Tokyo's best known green spaces: Hama-rikyu Gardens, Koishikawa Korakuen, Rikugien, Shinjuku Gyoen, Yoyogi Park and Ueno Park. It explains what makes each one special, when to go, and how to enjoy them without crowds.
Hama-rikyu sits at the mouth of the Sumida River, beside Tokyo Bay. Its history begins in 1654, when Tokugawa Tsunashige, a son of the shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu, received permission to reclaim land from Edo Bay and built a villa and garden here. His son Tokugawa Ienobu later became the sixth shogun. Later shoguns used the property as a secondary residence and for falconry. After the Meiji Restoration it became a state guest house, and it opened to the public in April 1946. In 1952 it received national designations as a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty.
The centerpiece is a tidal pond, Shioiri-no-ike, surrounded by a seawater moat fed from Tokyo Bay. A teahouse at the center of the pond is reached by two bridges and serves matcha and Japanese sweets. The garden also has a peony garden, a plum grove and seasonal flower fields. A water bus from Asakusa takes about 35 minutes, and the contrast between old pines and modern towers is the garden's signature view.
Koishikawa Korakuen was begun in 1629 by Tokugawa Yorifusa, the eleventh son of Tokugawa Ieyasu and the first daimyo of the Mito domain. His son Mitsukuni later expanded and renovated it, naming it Korakuen, and he drew on advice from a Ming-dynasty Confucian scholar, Zhu Zhiyu, who had taken refuge in Japan. According to the usual explanation, the name comes from a Chinese phrase that means to be concerned first with the troubles of the world and to enjoy only after others have done so, an ideal of the ruler.
Covering more than 70,000 square meters, the garden is a mix of Japanese and Chinese styles, with miniature landscapes meant to resemble famous scenes in both countries. It was first protected as a Place of Scenic Beauty and Historic Site in 1923, and in 1952 these designations were upgraded to special status. It is a good place for a slow walk and for autumn color.
Rikugien was built between 1695 and 1702 by Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu, a close adviser to the shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi. The name is often explained as a reference to the six elements of waka (classical Japanese poetry), and the garden was designed to recreate scenes from poems around a central pond. Walking paths wind around the shore, with hills, islands, bridges and tea pavilions placed to create changing views.
In 1878, Iwasaki Yataro, the founder of Mitsubishi, bought the property and restored it. The Iwasaki family donated it to the city of Tokyo in 1938, and it was designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty in 1953. In late autumn, the foliage is lit in the evening, and the garden opens late, until 9 p.m., for these seasonal events. The garden is a short walk from Komagome Station.
Shinjuku Gyoen covers 58.3 hectares and combines French formal, English landscape and traditional Japanese styles. It was once the property of the Naito family, became an imperial garden in 1906, and opened to the public as a national garden in 1949. It contains about 1,500 cherry trees and more than 20,000 trees overall, and a greenhouse built in the 1950s displays over 1,700 tropical and subtropical species.
The garden is generally closed on Mondays, except in the cherry blossom season (late March to late April) and the chrysanthemum season (the first half of November), when it opens daily. Picnics are popular on its large lawns, and the garden has three gates, Shinjuku, Okido and Sendagaya. Confirm hours, entry fees and rules on the official site before your visit.
Yoyogi Park covers about 54 hectares beside Harajuku Station and Meiji Shrine. On December 19, 1910, Captain Yoshitoshi Tokugawa made Japan's first successful powered airplane flight here. In 1964, the area housed the main Olympic Village for the Tokyo Games, and Kenzo Tange's Yoyogi National Gymnasium still stands nearby. In 1967, much of the surrounding land was absorbed into the park.
Today it is the city's most relaxed gathering place. On Sundays the park fills with musicians, dancers, jugglers, cosplayers and hobby groups, and in spring thousands come to enjoy hanami (cherry blossom viewing). Wide lawns and tree-lined paths make it a pleasant stop for picnics, running and people watching.
Ueno Park opened in 1873 on the former grounds of Kan'ei-ji, a major temple founded in 1625. Most of the temple buildings were destroyed in the Battle of Ueno in 1868, though a five-story pagoda, the Kiyomizu Kannon-do and the main gate survive. The park covers about 133 acres and is home to several major museums, including the Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum of Nature and Science, and the National Museum of Western Art, designed by Le Corbusier and part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing.
Shinobazu Pond, about 16 hectares, has lotus beds in summer and is an important winter resting place for birds. Ueno Toshogu, a shrine to Tokugawa Ieyasu dating from 1651, sits among the trees, and a bronze statue of Saigo Takamori walking his dog is a local favorite. About 800 cherry trees bloom in the park, and more nearby.
The six places suit different travelers. Hama-rikyu is best for people who enjoy views that mix water, pines and modern towers, and for anyone who wants a tea break in the middle of a pond. Korakuen and Rikugien reward those who like gardens designed as walking stories, with each turn revealing a new composition. Shinjuku Gyoen suits families, picnickers and anyone who wants space to stretch out on grass.
Yoyogi Park is the pick for lively weekend atmosphere, while Ueno Park combines nature with culture, so a rainy day can still be spent indoors in a museum before the clouds clear. If time allows for only one, choose by season: Shinjuku Gyoen or Ueno for cherry blossoms, Rikugien for autumn leaves, and Hama-rikyu for a clear winter day when the air makes the skyline sharp.
Each garden has its own best season: cherry blossoms at Shinjuku Gyoen, Ueno and Yoyogi from late March to early April; maples at Rikugien and Korakuen in late autumn; fresh green and irises in early summer; and plum blossoms and winter clear air in February. Weekday mornings are calmer than weekends.
Hours and fees vary. The Tokyo metropolitan gardens typically open in the morning and close in late afternoon, with last entry before closing, so check the official site for current times, closing days and prices. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes, carry out your trash and stay on marked paths. Combining two gardens in one day, such as Ueno Park in the morning and Yanaka in the afternoon, is easy by train.
Hama-rikyu Gardens on Wikipedia