Hanagasa Festival: Yamagata's Flower Hat Dance

Thousands of dancers in straw hats trimmed with paper safflower blossoms fill the streets of Yamagata City every early August.

Published October 19, 2026 at 1:08 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: The Yamagata Hanagasa Festival is held every year from August 5 to 7 in Yamagata City, in the Tohoku region. Dancers wear hats decorated with red paper safflower blossoms and move through downtown streets in synchronized groups to the call "Yassho, makkasho." Visitors can watch, and on some nights join the open dance, which is easy to reach from Tokyo by Shinkansen.

A flower hat with a local meaning

The hanagasa is a wide, round hat made of straw or woven material and covered in small paper flowers. In Yamagata, those flowers are modeled on the safflower, known locally as benibana, a plant that has long been associated with the region. Its petals were once the source of a prized red dye and are still tied to Yamagata's identity, so wearing the blossoms on a hat is both decorative and a quiet nod to local history.

The festival is held each year from August 5 to 7, which falls in the middle of the Tohoku summer festival season. The dates are fixed, so travelers can plan ahead without waiting for an announcement. Hotels in Yamagata City fill quickly, so booking early or staying in a nearby city such as Tendo or Sendai is a sensible choice. Visitors can buy small decorated hats as souvenirs, and local shops also sell safflower-themed goods such as dyes, crafts and sweets. Looking for these items is a nice way to connect the dance with the region's agricultural identity.

How the festival developed

The Hanagasa Festival in its current form is relatively young compared with many Japanese festivals, having started in the 1960s. It built on older regional work songs and folk dances connected to hanagasa hats. Local organizers combined these influences into a large, shared celebration for the city, with parades, group dances and a community spirit meant to bring neighborhoods together. The accompanying music is the Hanagasa Ondo, a song sung in a folk style, along with the shouts "Yassho, makkasho." The song is lively and repeated throughout the festival, so by the second evening you may find yourself humming it.

Local dance schools, companies and neighborhood groups prepare for months, and the choreography is practiced widely across the region. Because the hats are the visual focus, groups pay attention to how they carry and angle them, and a long line of flower-covered hats moving in time makes a striking pattern from a distance. Many onlookers find it easiest to enjoy the dance by watching the rhythm of the whole street rather than a single dancer.

What happens during the three nights

The core event is the evening parade, in which groups of dancers move along the main street of downtown Yamagata. Each group wears matching costumes, with the hanagasa as the focal point, and dances in rows, turning and bowing in time with the music. The parade lasts several hours, and the scale, with thousands of participants, gives the whole area a festive feeling. Alongside the parade, there are special programs and performances announced in the official schedule, and events for children are common.

Some evenings include a dance in which spectators can join, with staff handing out simple hats or guiding you to the line. If you want to participate, ask at the festival information tent or a local tourism desk. Check the schedule for each night, since the lineup of groups and special performances changes. Many people attend two nights, one to watch and another to try the dance, which gives a fuller sense of the festival's mood.

Getting there

Yamagata City is reached by the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station, which usually takes about three hours. The festival streets are a walk from Yamagata Station. From Sendai, the Senzan line connects the two cities by train in roughly an hour, and buses also run between them. On the festival nights, the roads in the downtown area are closed to vehicles, and pedestrians flow in one direction.

Travel to the festival early and plan your return carefully, because trains can be crowded after the parade. If you stay overnight, Yamagata also has hot springs nearby, including the well-known Zao Onsen area, a short trip from the city. Local taxis are available at the station, but the downtown area is closed to cars during the parade, so you may need to walk part of the way. Leaving a little time for the walk is wise.

Watching with ease

Spectators usually stand along the streets or sit on provided seats. Paid reserved seating is available in some years, and may be sold at tourist offices or convenience stores. Standing room is free, but good spots fill by early evening. Arrive early to see the first groups and to enjoy the street stalls before the crowds peak. The heat of an August evening in Yamagata can be strong, and the humidity is high.

Wear light clothes, bring water and a small towel, and take breaks in shaded areas. A small folding fan is useful. For photography, avoid blocking the road and respect dancers. If you are traveling with children, pick a position near the edge where it is easy to step back. Public restrooms and rest areas are scattered through the downtown, and nearby shops are used to festival crowds. Keep small bills ready for snacks, and carry a bag for rubbish since bins fill quickly.

Food and drink to pair with the festival

Yamagata is known for its food. In summer, a regional favorite is imoni, a taro and meat stew that is better known in autumn but often appears at festivals. Cold soba noodles are widespread across the prefecture, and the region has a reputation for good soba. Yamagata is also famous for cherries, which are in season earlier in the year, and for sake, with local breweries offering tastings. Street stalls near the festival offer standard summer fare, including grilled corn, yakitori and shaved ice.

Some restaurants offer set menus that combine local specialties, and a cold beer after the parade is a classic way to end the night. Try to ask about local ingredients on the menu, because Yamagata has many small regional dishes that you might not see elsewhere. If you prefer a quieter meal, many restaurants take reservations for festival evenings, and booking a table before the parade begins lets you eat without queuing. Some places offer counter seats where you can watch the cooking, which is a pleasant way to learn about regional ingredients.

Combining the festival with other trips

Yamagata is a good base for exploring the Tohoku region. A day trip to Yamadera, a mountainside temple complex reached by stone steps, is popular, and the local train from Yamagata takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Ginzan Onsen, a hot spring town with wooden inns along a river, is another well-loved destination, though it is farther away and best booked in advance.

For a different type of summer festival, Tohoku also offers the Sendai Tanabata, the Akita Kanto and the Aomori Nebuta, which together make a loop that many travelers follow in early August. If you plan such a trip, check the dates and book transport early. Whichever festival you choose, the hanagasa stands out for its approachable atmosphere and the chance to dance.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the Yamagata Hanagasa Festival?

It is held every year from August 5 to 7. The main events take place in the evening, with the parade of dancers in the downtown area. Check the official festival website for the program, which can include special performances on certain nights.

Can visitors join the dance?

Yes, there are programs where spectators can participate. Staff may offer simple hats and guidance for beginners. Ask at the festival information desk or tourism booth for details, and follow staff instructions for how to join the line. Asking politely at the information desk is the easiest way to confirm the current arrangements.

How long does it take to get to Yamagata from Tokyo?

The Yamagata Shinkansen takes about three hours from Tokyo Station to Yamagata Station. The festival area is within walking distance of the station. Book seats ahead for festival dates, since trains and hotels are busy in early August. Build some flexibility into your plans in case the schedule shifts.

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More guides from Tokyo Paul: Eisa: Okinawa's Obon Drum Dance, Japan's Matsuri Calendar: A Month-by-Month Overview and Sanno Matsuri: Tokyo's Edo-Era Festival.