Beppu: The Steaming Hot Spring Capital of Japan

Published October 15, 2026 at 9:58 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Step off the train in Beppu, on the northeastern coast of Kyushu, and you will notice something unusual almost immediately: white steam curling up from rooftops, drains and hillsides across the city. Beppu is one of Japan's most famous hot spring destinations, a place where the ground itself seems to breathe. Visitors come to soak in warm baths, marvel at the colorful boiling ponds known as the hells, and enjoy food cooked by natural steam. This guide explains how the city's hot spring culture came about, what to see, how to enjoy it respectfully, and how to plan a relaxed stay.

A City Shaped by Hot Water

Beppu sits between the sea and a range of volcanic hills, with Mount Tsurumi rising behind the city. The mountain is geologically young, and steam vents known as fumaroles are still active in the area. That underground heat is what feeds the city's remarkable collection of hot springs. The local government and tourism organization present Beppu as the place in Japan with the greatest abundance of hot springs, and the city has well over a hundred and fifty public and private bathing facilities.

The hot spring areas of Beppu are grouped into eight main districts, often called the Beppu Hatto. Each has its own personality, from lively spots near the station to quieter neighborhoods in the hills. Kannawa is one of the best known, and it is also where most of the famous hells can be found. Wandering between districts gives a sense of how closely daily life and hot spring culture are intertwined here.

One of the best-loved historic baths is Takegawara Onsen, which opened in 1879 and is considered an important milestone in the development of hot spring tourism in the city. It remains a charming reminder of the early days of hot spring tourism for visitors who enjoy a bit of old Japan. With a population of just over one hundred thousand, Beppu feels friendly and manageable, which is part of its charm.

The Hells of Beppu

The word jigoku means hell in Japanese, and the Jigoku Meguri, or hell tour, is the best-known way to see Beppu's geothermal wonders. Despite the name, these are not frightening places at all. They are scenic hot springs, far too hot for bathing, which are enjoyed from the viewing area. The name is said to come from the days when these steaming, bubbling pools were seen as strange and untouchable. Today they are among the most popular attractions in Kyushu.

Seven hells are generally included in the tour, spread across the Kannawa and Kamegawa areas. Umi Jigoku, or Sea Hell, is a large cobalt blue pond that looks like a tropical lagoon. Chinoike Jigoku, or Blood Pond Hell, is famous for its deep red clay and is described as the oldest of Japan's hells. Tatsumaki Jigoku is a geyser that erupts at regular intervals, roughly every thirty to forty minutes, and visitors gather around to watch the spray shoot upward. Other highlights include Shiraike Jigoku, another scenic pond on the circuit, and Oniyama Jigoku, where a crocodile farm keeps reptiles in warm water.

Several of the hells, including Umi, Chinoike, Tatsumaki and Shiraike, are designated as National Places of Scenic Beauty. The colors come from minerals in the water, and one of the hells is known for changing its look with the weather. The best way to enjoy them is to take your time, since each one has a different feeling and some have gardens, small shops and tasty snacks.

Eating with Steam

One of the most delightful features of Beppu is food cooked using natural steam. This method is called jigoku mushi, or hell steaming, and it has a long history that traces back to the Edo period. Vegetables, seafood, meat and eggs are placed into a steaming oven and cooked by the heat rising from the ground. Because it uses only steam, many people love the clean, natural taste that comes out of it.

At some of the hells, you can sample steamed treats such as soft eggs and a baked pudding made with hot spring steam. In the Furomoto area, there are steaming ovens that you can rent, and nearby shops sell ingredients so you can cook your own meal. Staff will explain how long to leave each item in, and it is important to follow their instructions, since the steam can come out with force when the lid is lifted.

Lunch in Kannawa is a popular plan, and many travelers like to follow it with a walk and a sweet. Footbaths in some areas let you rest your feet while you enjoy the scenery, and they make a gentle break from sightseeing. The mix of food, warmth and relaxation is a big part of what makes Beppu special.

Bathing Etiquette and Hot Spring Experiences

If you plan to bathe in a public onsen, a few simple customs make the experience smoother. Wash thoroughly at the shower stations before entering the bath, and keep your small towel out of the water. Most baths are separated by gender, and swimsuits are not worn. Tie up long hair, keep your voice low and leave the bath if you feel dizzy. Tattoo policies vary from place to place, so it is a good idea to check ahead if that is a concern for you.

Beppu also offers other ways to enjoy the heat. Sand baths, where you lie under warm sand, are a traditional highlight, and there are places to try this experience in the city. Hotels and traditional inns, known as ryokan, often feature their own hot spring baths with views of the sea or mountains.

Because hot spring water is warm, it is wise to drink water before and after bathing and avoid very long soaks. Take your time between baths and enjoy the slow rhythm. Beppu is a place designed to help you slow down.

Getting Around and Planning

Beppu is reachable by train and bus from other parts of Kyushu, and it is a popular stop on trips around Oita Prefecture. Once in the city, buses take visitors from Beppu Station to the main hell areas in about twenty minutes, and a sightseeing bus tour is available for those who prefer to have a guide. The two main clusters of hells are close enough to explore on foot, so touring the full set usually takes around two hours.

For wider views, the Beppu Ropeway, which opened in 1962, carries visitors up the slopes of Mount Tsurumi. On clear days the panorama over the city and the bay is lovely. Combine the ropeway with a visit to a hot spring and a seafood dinner and you have a relaxing and varied day.

Any season works for Beppu. Cooler months make a hot bath feel especially cozy, while spring and autumn bring comfortable weather for walking between sights. Wear shoes that are easy to slip on and off, carry a small towel and keep some coins for snacks. Check opening hours and ticket details before you go, since they can change.

Quick Takeaways

Beppu is a rare city where geology becomes a daily pleasure. Its colorful hells are lovely to look at, its bathhouses range from historic to modern, and its steam cooking turns a meal into an experience. With friendly scale, easy transport and a calm pace, it suits both first-time visitors and seasoned hot spring lovers.

Come for the steam, stay for the soak, and take a little time for a walk through Kannawa. You will likely leave warmer, calmer and ready to plan your next onsen trip.

Further Reading

For more details, the Japan National Tourism Organization's page on the Hells of Beppu and the English Wikipedia article on Beppu are good next stops.

Want to learn more about Japan's hot spring towns? My book, Onsen Towns, is there if you would like to read further.