Tanabe and the Kumano Kodo Gateway: Takijiri-oji and Beyond

Updated October 25, 2026 | By Tokyo Paul

For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have walked through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula toward the shrines of Kumano. Today, one of the main doors to that experience is Tanabe, a large city in Wakayama Prefecture that includes Kumano Hongu Taisha within its borders. This guide explains where Tanabe fits in the Kumano Kodo story, what the first steps of the Nakahechi route look like, how the oji shrines and Kumano Hongu Taisha add meaning to the walk, and what hikers should know about preparation and safety before heading out. Because mountain conditions change, details here are meant for planning only and should be confirmed with official sources.

Tanabe at a Glance

Tanabe is the largest city in the Kansai region by area. It has a population of 70,972 (as of November 1, 2021) and covers 1,026.91 km2. In a merger on May 1, 2005, the village of Ryujin, the town of Nakahechi, the village of Oto and the town of Hongu were merged into Tanabe. Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan shrines, lies within the city.

The city has a gentle side too. Ume is its official flower and umeboshi (pickled plum) production is a major part of local agriculture. Notable people connected with Tanabe include the naturalist Minakata Kumagusu (1867-1941) and Morihei Ueshiba (1883-1969), the founder of Aikido.

The climate is humid subtropical, with little snow, an average annual temperature of 16.6 C and September as the wettest month. Festivals include the Tanabe Matsuri in July, the Ya-Ya Matsuri in August and the Benkei Matsuri in October.

The Kumano Kodo and Its World Heritage Status

The Kumano Kodo was registered in July 2004 as part of the World Heritage property "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range," with the listing extended in 2016. The property spans Mie, Nara and Wakayama Prefectures, and the Wikipedia article describes the Kumano Kodo as the first road in Japan registered as a World Heritage site. The routes have been used for more than 1,000 years, and they lead to the three grand shrines known as the Kumano Sanzan: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha.

The official Tanabe tourism bureau names four routes: Nakahechi, Kohechi, Ohechi and Iseji. The trails combine well-worn paths with sections of ancient cobblestone. Of these, the Nakahechi runs from Tanabe toward the Kumano Sanzan and is the most popular route from Kyoto. The UNESCO-registered section begins at Takijiri-oji.

There is a famous European partner. Galicia, Spain, and Wakayama Prefecture formed a sister road affiliation on October 9, 1998, and pilgrims who complete both routes can receive a "Dual-pilgrimage" certificate.

Understanding the Oji

Along the route stand small shrines called oji. They are subsidiary shrines of the Kumano Grand Shrines and were set up to protect and guide pilgrims. As a group they are called the Kyujukyu Oji, or Ninety-nine Oji, though the number is symbolic and "not an exact number." Five are considered the most prestigious, the Gotai Oji: Fujishiro, Kirime, Inabane, Takijiri and Hosshinmon.

Takijiri-oji is the point where the route enters the sacred mountains, and its name means "base of the waterfall." During the 12th and 13th centuries, pilgrims performed repeated cold-water purification rites here before worship. Pausing at an oji, bowing lightly and moving on quietly is a way of joining the long tradition of those who walked before.

The First Walk: Takijiri-oji to Takahara

Many visitors begin at Takijiri-oji, and the first stage is a good test of fitness and footwear. The walk to Takahara is about 4 km and takes 2-3 hours, with about 430 m gained and 200 m lost. The official page describes it as a steep climb through native and planted forest.

The trailhead is behind Takijiri-oji. About 15 minutes in, large boulders include Tainai-kuguri, a cave that walkers can climb through. At Takahara, the Takahara Kumano-jinja has giant camphor trees, and the village offers panoramic views of the Hatenashi mountain range.

Transport matters here. Buses run from Kii-Tanabe and Shirahama to Takijiri, but none serve Takahara. The nearest stop to the finish is Kurisugawa on Highway 311, about a 30-minute walk from Takahara. Reconfirm bus options with the Tanabe tourism bureau before you plan the day.

Onward to Kumano Hongu Taisha

The longer plan continues to Kumano Hongu Taisha. The Wikipedia article gives the distance from Takijiri-oji to Hongu as about 40 km, usually walked in two days with an overnight stop at Chikatsuyu. The Nakahechi can also be done in shorter highlight walks or consecutive day treks, with local buses reaching the isolated villages where accommodations are located. English signs, maps and luggage shuttle services are available.

Kumano Hongu Taisha was originally located on Oyunohara, a sandbank where the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers meet. A flood partly destroyed it in 1889, and the surviving buildings were moved to the present site in 1891. A great torii erected in 2000 at the entrance to Oyunohara is described as the largest torii in the world, 33.9 m tall and 42 m wide.

The shrine's festivals include the Yata-no-Hi Matsuri on the last Saturday of August, which honors the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, and a spring festival held April 13-15. Confirm festival dates with official sources, since schedules can be adjusted.

Hiking Safety Notice

Mountain trails carry real risks, and this guide cannot replace official advice. The following points come from the official Kumano Kodo tips and a Wakayama prefecture etiquette article. Follow local staff and posted instructions, and consider a guided option or public transport if conditions or fitness are uncertain.

Weather. Check the forecast daily and again with your accommodation because mountain weather can change quickly. Typhoons are unpredictable, so check the Japan Meteorological Agency and JR schedules. Heavy rain and wind can cause flash floods and landslides, so avoid walking in extreme weather. Summer is hot, humid and wet, so start early and drink plenty of fluids. Winter can bring freezing temperatures, and cold fronts can bring snow from late December to late February.

Wildlife. If an Asiatic bear is seen, keep your distance and report the sighting to local authorities. Avoid Asian giant hornet nests, do not swat, and move away; they are most aggressive in fall. The Japanese pit viper (mamushi) is venomous and should be avoided. Giant centipedes can hide in shoes, so check your footwear each morning, and check your body for ticks and leeches after hiking.

Clothing. Dress in layers of quick-drying clothing, avoid cotton, wear long sleeves and long pants against biting insects and ticks, and wear sturdy, broken-in hiking shoes.

Daylight. Days are shortest in winter and darkness comes earlier in valleys. Leave early, aim to reach your destination between 15:00 and 17:00, and carry a headlamp or flashlight.

Emergencies. The official tips list 119 for fire and medical emergencies, 110 for police, and the Japan Visitor Hotline at 050-3816-2787, available 24 hours in English, Chinese and Korean.

Water and trash. Natural water sources along the trail have not been tested, so carry enough water. Almost no public bins exist, so pack out all garbage.

The Wakayama article adds that multi-day treks are not suited to beginners.

Pilgrim Etiquette

The Kumano Kodo is a living sacred route as well as a hiking trail. Stay on the marked routes, carry out all waste, never light open fires, and camp only in designated campsites. When passing other walkers on steep sections, stay on the mountainside of the trail.

Trekking poles must have rubber tips because otherwise they damage the ancient cobblestone, and shoes with spikes or hard soles should be avoided. Greet people you meet, thank those who maintain the trail, and keep quiet in rural communities in the early morning. Book accommodation and luggage transfers in advance, since walking up to an accommodation without a reservation is not considered culturally appropriate.

Planning in Tanabe

The KUMANO KODO KAN Pilgrimage Center, near Takijiri-oji, offers maps and pamphlets, exhibitions, a coffee shop, coin lockers, a change room and a water cooler. The TANABE Tourist Information Center is next to JR Kiitanabe Station. Opening hours are listed on the official page, so check them before arriving.

A Daily Luggage Shuttle service lets hikers walk without carrying their bags, and luggage storage is available at the Tanabe Tourist Information Center near Kii-Tanabe Station. Spring and fall are the most popular seasons on the trail, which makes early booking wise.

Route closures can occur. At the time of writing, the official bureau lists a closure on a southern section of the Ohechi route between Wabuka Station and Tako Station from June 8, 2026 to an estimated April 30, 2027. Check the bureau's latest notices before choosing any route.

Short Answers

Where does the UNESCO-registered Nakahechi section begin? At Takijiri-oji.

How long is the first walk to Takahara? About 4 km, usually 2-3 hours.

Is Kumano Hongu Taisha in Tanabe? Yes, it lies within the city after the 2005 merger.

Keep Exploring

For planning beyond the cities, Tokyo Paul's Japan Hiking Trails & National Parks is described on Amazon as a practical, beginner-friendly guide to all 35 of Japan's national parks, with a focus on reaching trailheads without a rental car. See Japan Hiking Trails & National Parks on Amazon