Chochin and Wagasa: Japan's Paper Lanterns and Umbrellas

Published October 15, 2026 at 10:04 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Two Crafts That Glow and Shelter

Walk through a Japanese festival at dusk and you will probably notice two things made of paper and bamboo. One is the chochin, a softly glowing lantern that swings from a shop front or a shrine gate. The other is the wagasa, a paper umbrella that blooms open in a burst of color. Both crafts turn humble natural materials into objects that feel quietly festive, and both have survived into the modern age because people simply love looking at them.

This guide explains what each object is, where it came from, how it is built and why it still matters in Japanese daily life. You will also find practical suggestions for spotting chochin and wagasa on a trip, plus a few thoughts on bringing a small piece of the tradition home. Whether you are planning a first visit or simply curious about Japanese design, these two crafts are a lovely window into the country's love of light, paper and seasonal beauty.

What a Chochin Is and How It Folds

A chochin is a collapsible paper lantern. Its clever secret is a frame made from a thin strip of bamboo coiled in a spiral, which lets the lantern stretch open like a slinky and fold flat when it is not needed. A skin of washi (traditional Japanese paper) is attached over the frame, and the top is usually fitted with a hook or handle so the lantern can hang or be carried. In the past, a small flame fed by oil on a cotton wick provided the glow, while today most lanterns use electric bulbs.

Chochin are related to the paper lanterns of China, and written records of lanterns of this kind in Japan go back roughly a thousand years. They belong to a wider family of traditional Japanese lighting. The andon, for example, was a paper-covered frame that sheltered an oil flame indoors, while the bonbori was a hexagonal paper lamp with an open top, often seen at festivals. Stone lanterns called toro line the paths of temples, shrines and gardens, and they are cousins of the paper kind rather than the same thing.

The most recognizable chochin is the akachochin, whose name simply means red lantern. Hung in front of an izakaya (a casual Japanese pub where friends share small dishes and drinks), a red lantern with bold black lettering tells passersby that a warm, friendly place is open. Because the signal is so familiar, izakaya themselves are sometimes casually called akachochin. In busy evening districts, rows of red lanterns make narrow alleys look like glowing tunnels.

If you want to see a chochin on a heroic scale, head to Senso-ji in Tokyo's Asakusa district. Beneath the outer entrance, the Kaminarimon or Thunder Gate, hangs an enormous red lantern said to be roughly 3.9 meters tall and about 700 kilograms in weight. The gate is flanked by statues of Fujin and Raijin, the gods of wind and thunder, so the lantern is part of a very photogenic scene. Many visitors pause here before walking down Nakamise-dori, the shopping street that leads toward the temple's main hall.

Lanterns like this are not just decoration. At shrines and temples, chochin and stone lanterns are offerings of light, and they help create the calm, special atmosphere that people associate with sacred places. At Tsurugaoka Hachimangu in Kamakura, a festival features bonbori that artists have painted by hand, with around 400 of them lit for visitors to enjoy. Festival lanterns often glow warmest in the early evening, when the sky is deep blue and the paper seems to hold the light.

Wagasa: The Oil-Paper Umbrella

The wagasa is a traditional Japanese umbrella made from bamboo ribs covered in paper and treated with oil. The oil-paper umbrella began in China and spread across East and Southeast Asia, with makers in each region developing their own styles. In Japan, the craft took on a refined look, and today wagasa are admired as much for their patterns as for their function. Their ribs fan out like the spokes of a wheel, and when you look up through a lit umbrella the paper glows in a soft, warm tone.

Several famous styles exist. The janomegasa features a bold bull's-eye design, with a name that means snake-eye umbrella. Large red parasols are used for outdoor occasions such as tea ceremonies, where they add a bright accent against green gardens. Smaller, colorful umbrellas called buyo-gasa are used by performers in traditional Japanese dance. Kyoto is known for kyowagasa, and several regions across the country, including Tottori, have also had umbrella-making traditions.

The best-known center of wagasa making is Gifu City, in the Kano district. According to the Japan Atlas, umbrella making there began in the mid-eighteenth century, when a local lord encouraged lower-ranking samurai to craft umbrellas as a way to earn extra income. The region offered ideal materials: strong Mino washi paper, bamboo from nearby valleys, and sesame oil and lacquer from the mountains for waterproofing. The process involves well over a hundred steps, so several skilled craftspeople usually share the work rather than one person doing everything.

How These Crafts Are Made

Making a chochin begins with the bamboo. Thin strips are shaped and coiled into a spiral, forming the frame that gives the lantern its remarkable flexibility. Paper or silk is then applied, and the surface is decorated with a family crest, a shop name or a seasonal picture. In Gifu Prefecture, lanterns are known for their delicate look, made with the local Mino washi that has a reputation for being both light and strong.

Wagasa follow a similar spirit of patient handwork. The bamboo is split into ribs and assembled into a frame, the paper is carefully pasted on, and the surface is coated with oil and lacquer to make it waterproof. The finished umbrella is then decorated, and the handle and details are completed by hand. The entire process can take months in some workshops, and every step depends on the maker's feel for the materials.

It is easy to appreciate why these items cost more than a factory-made umbrella or lamp. Each one carries many hours of skill, and the materials are entirely natural. Output of Gifu wagasa has fallen from its peak, when production reached over a million umbrellas a year, to a few tens of thousands today, and a small number of companies keep the craft alive. That makes every umbrella a modest piece of living heritage.

Enjoying Chochin and Wagasa on a Trip

You do not need to hunt hard for chochin. Look for red lanterns outside izakaya in the evening, white or colored ones strung across shrine approaches, and festival lanterns hung from stalls in summer. Evening is the best time to see them because the glow stands out against the darkening sky. When you photograph lanterns at a shrine or temple, keep a respectful distance, avoid touching them and stay clear of worshippers.

Wagasa often appear at tea ceremonies, dance performances, wedding photography, and traditional festivals. Some craft shops and workshops in places like Kyoto and Gifu display umbrellas and lanterns, and a few may offer hands-on experiences, so it is worth checking the local tourism office or the official site of the area you plan to visit. Rainy days can also be a pleasant time to look for them, since a patterned paper umbrella against wet stone paths makes a graceful scene.

If you buy a wagasa or chochin as a souvenir, treat it gently. Paper umbrellas are traditionally dried open in a shaded, airy place after use, and lanterns should be kept away from direct flame or heat. Smaller decorative lanterns and mini umbrellas make easy gifts that pack well, while full-size craft pieces are lovely display items for a home.

Quick Takeaways

Chochin and wagasa share a simple formula: bamboo, paper and patient hands. The chochin folds and glows, marking izakaya, festivals and shrines with a friendly light, while the wagasa shelters and delights, appearing in dances, tea gatherings and seasonal scenery. Seeing the huge lantern at Senso-ji, spotting red lanterns down a lively alley, or admiring a bull's-eye umbrella at a craft shop are all easy ways to connect with these traditions.

The next time you travel in Japan, let a glowing lantern lead you to a cozy meal or let a painted umbrella catch your eye on a rainy afternoon. Small details like these are a big part of what makes the country so charming, and they invite you to slow down and look closely.