Furano Heso Matsuri: Hokkaido's Belly Button Festival

Every summer, thousands of dancers in Furano paint cheerful faces on their bellies and parade through town in one of Japan's funniest, friendliest festivals.

Published October 21, 2026 at 5:56 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Furano Heso Matsuri, officially the Hokkai Heso Matsuri, is Hokkaido's belly button festival, held in Furano city on July 28 and 29. Furano sits near the geographic center of Hokkaido, often called its belly button, so dancers paint faces on their bellies and parade in a lively dance. Begun in 1969, it is free to watch and welcomes visitors to join.

Few festivals in Japan make visitors smile as quickly as this one. In the heart of Hokkaido, a whole town turns out with faces drawn on their stomachs, with the belly button serving as a mouth, and dances through the streets to cheerful music. This guide explains the meaning of the festival, how it began, what the dance looks like, how visitors can take part, and how to fit it into a summer trip across Hokkaido.

What is the Furano Heso Matsuri?

The Hokkai Heso Matsuri is an annual summer festival in Furano, in central Hokkaido, where participants paint faces on their bellies and dance. Heso means belly button in Japanese, and Hokkai refers to Hokkaido, so the name is simply the Hokkaido Belly Button Festival. It is one of the island's best-loved and most unusual summer events.

The joke at its heart is geographical. Furano lies near the middle of Hokkaido, so locals have long described it as the island's belly button. Rather than hiding the idea, the town celebrated it with a festival in which the bellies of the participants become comic characters, with the navel as a mouth.

The performance is called the heso odori, or belly button dance, and the painted faces are known as zubara. The festival is lighthearted, playful and open, and while it is full of humor, it also expresses real community spirit, which is why local residents and visitors alike love it.

History and origins

The festival began in 1969, when the people of Furano wanted a way to bring together residents who lived across a wide area. Organizers built the event around the idea of the town's central position in Hokkaido and the belly button as a symbol of connection. The very first festival was small, with only a modest number of dancers, but it grew steadily.

Today it has more than fifty years of history. Several thousand people dance during the two festival days, and many more come to watch, which shows how much the event has grown. The festival is also the annual festival of Hokushin Shrine, known locally as Heso Shrine, which prays for life, health, happiness and peace, and that gives the celebration a gentle spiritual side.

The festival is also described as celebrating the spirit of Furano's pioneers, who built communities in the open land. The belly button, a symbol of connection, fits neatly with that story of people coming together.

When and where it is held

The festival is held every year on July 28 and 29, in the center of Furano city. As with many summer events, dates and programs are confirmed each year, so check the official festival site or the Furano tourism office before booking.

The venue is in the town center, including a temporary stage area along the Shin-Aioi shopping street. It is only a few minutes' walk from JR Furano Station, which makes it easy to reach on foot after you arrive. The main dance competition and parade have traditionally taken place in the evening.

Furano is in the middle of Hokkaido's farm country, well known for its lavender fields and for winter skiing. July is a beautiful time to be in the area, which makes it a good match for the festival.

What happens during the festival

The central event is the belly button dance, in which participants gather in teams and dance through the streets. Each participant has a face painted on the stomach, and some wear costumes that cover the upper body so that the belly appears to be a head. Teams compete in various categories, and prizes are given for creativity and humor.

Alongside the dance, the festival includes performances of taiko drums and other music, children's events, and food stalls selling local snacks. The streets fill with people in a relaxed, cheerful mood, and visitors often join in the clapping and cheering.

The festival is also a showcase for local food. Restaurants and stalls offer dishes made from regional ingredients, as well as everyday festival favorites such as yakisoba noodles and curry. A walk through the festival grounds is a pleasant way to sample the flavors of Hokkaido.

Highlights and unique features

The painted bellies are the star attraction. Faces range from simple smiley designs to elaborate characters, and creativity is part of the fun. Some participants choose familiar cartoon-style figures or comical faces with big mustaches and droopy eyes. Everyone is encouraged to be imaginative.

Another unique feature is the way the festival welcomes visitors. Foreign travelers, locals and children all take part together, and the feel is more of a giant party than a formal ceremony. Visitors who join a team often say the experience is memorable because of the warmth of the crowd.

Nearby, a small hall called Hahako-do is associated with protecting children's umbilical cords, and it adds a touching link between the festival and the idea of the belly button as a sign of family connection.

Traditional costumes, music and symbols

Costume is simple but unmistakable. Participants wear shorts or similar bottoms that leave the stomach bare, and they use a large hat or cover to turn the torso into a face, with paper or cloth arms attached at the hips. The effect is that the belly seems to be a small character dancing across the street.

If you would prefer not to show your stomach, you can paint a face on a t-shirt instead, and that is a popular and comfortable option. Face paint is usually made for skin and is easy to apply, and teams often help each other with the designs.

The music is festive, with drums and rhythmic chants guiding the dance. The moves are easy to learn, and instructions are available from local tourism sources, so you can follow along even if it is your first time.

How visitors can join in

Visitors can take part as well as watch. In past years, the organizers have offered a sign-up for individual participants who want to join a team, with the number of places limited, and the cost has covered a costume kit. Because details change, check the official festival website or call the organizing committee, whose contact details are published by the city, to see how to register this year.

Teams usually need a few friends to help with the face painting, so it is a nice activity for groups. Bring paint that is safe for skin, and practice a simple design ahead of time, or ask staff about local options.

If you only want to watch, the festival is free, and a spot along the parade route in the evening gives a great view. Arrive early for a front-row position and bring a light jacket for after sunset, since Hokkaido evenings can be cooler than you expect in summer.

How to get there

Furano can be reached from several Hokkaido hubs. Travelers often fly to Asahikawa Airport, from which Furano is roughly an hour by car, and buses connect the airport and the town. Another route is to fly to New Chitose Airport near Sapporo and continue by train, with a change at Asahikawa for the JR Furano Line.

From Tokyo, flying is by far the quickest option. Whichever route you choose, allow extra travel time in summer, and reserve your trains, buses or rental car in advance, since July is a busy tourist season in Hokkaido.

Hotels in Furano and the nearby town of Biei fill quickly in late July, so book early. Once you are in town, the festival area is within walking distance of the station.

Tips for visitors and etiquette

Be ready for fun. Smile, cheer and applaud the teams, and feel free to take photos, but ask permission before taking close-up pictures of an individual participant, especially children. Keep the route clear so the parade can pass smoothly.

Wear comfortable shoes, carry some cash for the stalls, and bring water, since late July can be warm during the day. Some temporary toilets are set up for the festival, and nearby stores may let festival-goers use restrooms. Wi-Fi may not be available at the venue, so download your maps in advance.

Staff members who speak foreign languages may be few, but multilingual flyers have been provided in the past, and the atmosphere is friendly enough that gestures and smiles go a long way.

Combine it with nearby sights

Furano is a wonderful base for exploring central Hokkaido. The area is known for lavender fields that bloom in summer, and the rolling hills of nearby Biei, with the famous Blue Pond, are only a short drive away. Both are included in the related guides listed below.

Sapporo, Hokkaido's capital, is another worthwhile stop and is also a place where you can enjoy Hokkaido's celebrated seafood and dairy foods. The summer festival season in Hokkaido includes the Sapporo Matsuri at Hokkaido Shrine in June, so a longer trip could combine several festivals.

If you enjoy hiking, the mountains around Furano and Daisetsuzan offer wonderful scenery, with many trails open in the summer season.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is it called the belly button festival?

Furano sits near the geographic center of Hokkaido, which locals call the island's belly button, or heso in Japanese. The festival celebrates this idea with a dance in which participants paint faces on their bellies, using the navel as a mouth. It began in 1969 to bring the community together.

When is the Hokkai Heso Matsuri held?

It is held every year on July 28 and 29 in the center of Furano, Hokkaido, with the main dance in the evening. Programs and sign-up rules can change from year to year, so check the official festival website or the Furano tourism office before you plan your trip.

Can visitors join the belly button dance?

Yes. Visitors can usually watch for free, and organizers have offered limited sign-ups for people who want to dance in a team. Details such as fees, costume kits and registration can change, so check the official festival site or contact the organizing committee to confirm.

Further Reading

To explore further, see Hokkai Heso Matsuri (Wikipedia), Hokkai Heso Matsuri (Visit Hokkaido) and Hokkai Heso Matsuri (Furano Tourism Association).

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Biei and the Blue Pond: Hokkaido's Patchwork Hills, Sapporo Matsuri: Hokkaido Shrine's Early Summer Festival and Hokkaido Food: Fresh Seafood, Creamy Dairy and Northern Flavors.