Twice a year, Nara's ancient forest shrine lights its famous lanterns at nightfall, turning mossy paths and vermilion corridors into a hushed sea of gold.
Published October 21, 2026 at 5:18 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul
Quick answer: Mantoro, literally the festival of ten thousand lanterns, is held at Kasuga Taisha shrine in Nara twice a year: on the night of Setsubun in early February and on August 14 and 15 during Obon. About 3,000 stone and hanging lanterns, donated over roughly 800 years, are lit at dusk, creating a quiet, candlelit walk through the shrine's forested grounds.
Kasuga Taisha is already one of the best-known shrines in Japan, with its rows of stone lanterns beneath tall trees and the gentle deer of Nara Park nearby. On the Mantoro nights, those lanterns are lit all at once, and the shrine becomes a different place entirely. This guide explains what the name means, how the tradition grew, when the lanterns are lit, and how to enjoy the evening comfortably. It also offers tips for the walk, notes on etiquette, and ideas for combining the festival with the rest of historic Nara.
Mantoro means ten thousand lanterns, and the name is a poetic way of describing an overwhelming number of lights. In practice, about 3,000 lanterns are lit at Kasuga Taisha, which is still a remarkable sight when they glow together in a forest at night.
The lanterns come in two main kinds. Stone lanterns line the long approach paths and surround the sacred buildings, while bronze lanterns hang from the eaves of the vermilion corridors that connect the shrine's halls. Each one has been given to the shrine as an offering, so a walk among them is also a walk through centuries of devotion.
The festival is simple in form. There is no large procession or noisy parade, just the quiet lighting of the lanterns, a ceremony at the shrine, and the freedom for visitors to wander slowly through the glow. For many travelers, that calm is exactly what makes it special.
Kasuga Taisha was founded in 768 and is the family shrine of the Fujiwara clan, one of the most powerful noble families of ancient Japan. It stands at the edge of Kasugayama Primeval Forest, a woodland that has been protected for many centuries, and the shrine and forest are both part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara World Heritage Site.
The shrine is also known for a remarkable tradition of renewal. Its buildings have been rebuilt to the same design at regular intervals of about twenty years over a very long period, with the most recent major rebuilding completed in 2016. This idea that sacred places stay fresh through careful renewal is a familiar theme in Shinto.
Lanterns have been donated to the shrine for roughly 800 years by court nobles, warriors, and ordinary worshippers. Local tourism sources describe the collection as the shrine's great treasure. During the Heian period, the lanterns were lit every night, and although that daily custom ended in the early Meiji era, when Shinto and Buddhist practices were formally separated, the present Mantoro ceremony was introduced in the 1960s so that the lights could shine again.
Mantoro is held twice a year. The first is Setsubun Mantoro, on the night of Setsubun in early February, the traditional day before the start of spring. The second is Chugen Mantoro, on the nights of August 14 and 15, at the time of the Obon season, when families remember their ancestors.
Both festivals take place in the evening, with lighting beginning around dusk. Exact start and end times, and any changes to the schedule are posted on the official Kasuga Taisha website, so readers should confirm the details before they travel. Schedules and rules can change from year to year.
The two seasons feel quite different. February is cold and crisp, with the lights glowing against a clear winter sky, while August is warm, with the green forest all around. Many visitors enjoy both, but either one gives the full experience.
As evening falls, the lanterns are lit until the grounds glow. Visitors walk along the stone-lined approach, pass the large torii gates, and continue toward the main shrine, where the hanging lanterns in the corridors cast warm light on the red lacquered pillars.
The pace of the evening is slow. Because the paths are narrow and the setting is meant to be contemplative, visitors usually move in a quiet flow, stopping briefly to admire a lantern or a view before continuing. Candlelike light flickers on the stone, and the dark forest around the paths gives the whole scene a deep, peaceful mood.
The Setsubun version is closely tied to the turning of the seasons, and the lanterns are believed to guide spirits and connect the world of the living with the world of the dead. The Obon version has a similar meaning, offering light to welcome ancestors during the summer holiday. In both cases, the lanterns are an act of prayer as well as a beautiful sight.
The most striking feature is the sheer density of lanterns. Along the long approach from the second torii gate toward the main shrine, stone lanterns stand on both sides, and when they are lit the path becomes a corridor of soft light. Inside the shrine, hanging lanterns give the vermilion buildings a warm glow that is hard to capture in photographs.
Another highlight is the setting. Kasuga Taisha sits in a forest at the foot of a sacred mountain, so the lanterns are surrounded by ancient trees, moss, and the quiet of the grounds. The deer of Nara Park, which are traditionally regarded as messengers of the shrine's deities, live in the surrounding area, and visitors may meet them on the way.
The festival is also notable for what it lacks. The Setsubun event, in particular, is known as a quiet, spiritual occasion without bean throwing or food stalls, which is a nice contrast to livelier festivals elsewhere in Japan. Visitors who want a bean-throwing event on the same day can find one at nearby temples during daytime hours.
Because Mantoro is a quiet lantern event rather than a parade, there are few special costumes. Shrine priests and shrine maidens wear traditional robes during the ceremonies, and some visitors enjoy dressing in yukata for the August evening. The lanterns themselves are the main symbol of the festival.
Sound plays a quiet role. Visitors mostly hear soft footsteps and the natural sounds of the forest. The absence of loud music makes it an excellent event for travelers who prefer a calm, reflective evening.
Symbolism is strong but gentle. Light in Japanese tradition stands for guidance, memory, and blessings, and a lantern lit for the dead or for the new season is a visible sign of those hopes. Visitors often pause quietly for a moment of thanks or a wish.
Kasuga Taisha is in the eastern part of Nara City, inside the Nara Park area. From JR Nara Station or Kintetsu Nara Station, a city bus bound for Kasuga Taisha Honden takes about eleven to fifteen minutes, followed by a short walk. Another option is the outer loop bus to Kasuga Taisha Omotesando, which takes about nine to thirteen minutes, followed by a walk of about ten minutes.
Since the walk through the park is part of the experience, many visitors arrive early in the evening and stroll along the main approach. Check the evening bus schedule in advance and allow extra time for the return trip.
Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes, since the paths are gravel and stone, and dress warmly in February or lightly in August. Bring a small bag so that your hands remain free. The event is popular, so arriving a little before sunset helps you avoid the thickest crowds.
Keep your voice low and move steadily with the flow of people. Photography is allowed in many areas, but some places have restrictions, and tripods are generally not permitted because they block the narrow paths. Please follow staff directions and signs. Do not touch or climb the lanterns, and treat the deer with respect, as they are wild animals even though they live peacefully in the park.
Remember that the shrine is a place of worship. A simple bow at the gate and a quiet manner on the grounds are always appreciated.
Nara is a compact city, and the Mantoro evening fits neatly into a day of sightseeing. Todaiji Temple and its Great Buddha Hall, Kofukuji Temple with its five-story pagoda, and the old town of Naramachi are all within easy reach. Nara Park itself is a delightful place to walk, with its famous deer and wide lawns.
Many travelers choose to stay overnight in Nara so that they can enjoy the lanterns without worrying about the last train, and Kyoto and Osaka are both close enough for an easy return trip the next day. Combining a daytime walk through the shrine grounds with the evening lantern lighting lets you see two very different faces of the same place.
Mantoro takes place twice a year: on the night of Setsubun in early February and on the nights of August 14 and 15. The lanterns are lit in the evening, beginning around dusk. Hours and admission details can change, so confirm them on the official Kasuga Taisha website before traveling.
About 3,000 stone and hanging lanterns are lit on the shrine grounds. The name Mantoro means ten thousand lanterns, but this is a poetic figure rather than an exact count. The lanterns have been donated to the shrine over roughly 800 years by nobles, warriors, and ordinary worshippers.
Take a city bus from JR Nara Station or Kintetsu Nara Station toward Kasuga Taisha Honden, which takes about eleven to fifteen minutes. You can also take the outer loop bus to Kasuga Taisha Omotesando and walk about ten minutes. Check the evening return schedule before you go.
To explore further, see Kasuga Taisha and Chugen Mantoro Festival at Nara City Tourism.
More guides from Tokyo Paul: Kasuga Taisha: Nara's Forest Shrine of Lanterns, Setsubun: Throwing Beans to Welcome Spring and Naramachi and Kofukuji: Nara's Old Town and Five-Story Pagoda.