Onomichi and the Shimanami Kaido: Cycling Across the Inland Sea

Published October 15, 2026 at 11:37 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Imagine pedaling across a suspension bridge with the Seto Inland Sea shining on both sides, then rolling down to a quiet island village where lemon trees grow beside the road. That is the experience of the Shimanami Kaido, one of Japan's best-loved cycling routes. It links Onomichi, a charming hillside port city in Hiroshima Prefecture, with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture on the island of Shikoku. This guide covers the history and layout of the route, what to see in Onomichi, how rentals and logistics work, and how to enjoy the islands comfortably, whether you cycle the whole route or just a short section.

What the Shimanami Kaido Is

The Shimanami Kaido is a series of bridges and islands that connects Honshu, Japan's main island, with Shikoku. The expressway, officially known as the Nishiseto Expressway, is about 59 kilometers long and opened on May 1, 1999. It crosses the Seto Inland Sea by hopping from island to island, including Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Hakatajima, Oshima and Omishima. Each bridge has its own style, and together they form an impressive piece of engineering that is also a pleasure to look at.

What makes the route special for travelers is the dedicated path for cyclists and pedestrians. The cycling route is about 70 kilometers long, since it uses local roads and bridge paths separate from the expressway. It is the only one of the three land connections between Honshu and Shikoku that can be crossed on foot or by bicycle, which gives it a unique appeal. Signs along the way help riders find the route, and it is always wise to follow current signage on the day.

Among the highlights is the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, made of three successive suspension bridges and described as the longest series of suspension bridges in the world. The Tatara Bridge is another stunner, a cable-stayed bridge ranked among the longest of its kind. Riding across these structures, with the wide sky above and the sea below, is the moment most cyclists remember best.

Onomichi: A Hillside Port Town

Most riders begin in Onomichi, and the town is worth a little time before you set off. It sits on a narrow coastal strip with little flat land, so houses and lanes climb the slopes behind. This gives the town a charming, layered look, with small alleyways, stairways and views over the water at every turn. It faces the Seto Inland Sea, and its coast is part of Setonaikai National Park.

Senko-ji, a temple founded in the ninth century, sits on the hill above the town, and a ropeway runs from near the station up to Senkoji Park, where you can enjoy a broad view of the harbor and the islands. Several other temples are scattered through the town, and the paths connecting them form a pleasant walking route. Onomichi also has literary and film connections. Yasujiro Ozu's classic film Tokyo Story was shot here in 1953, and the writer Fumiko Hayashi is honored with a statue and a museum.

Spending a night in Onomichi lets you stroll the old streets in the evening, enjoy a relaxed dinner and start your ride refreshed.

Rental Bikes and Logistics

You do not need to bring your own bicycle. There are around ten rental terminals along the route, and many offer electric-assist bikes, which are a great help on hills and bridge approaches. Some terminals have tandems, and certain bikes can be returned at a different terminal from the one where you rented them. That flexibility means you can ride one way and then travel back by bus or train. Some terminals also provide luggage forwarding to partner hotels, which can make a multi-day ride much more comfortable.

A popular choice for those who want a shorter ride is a loop that starts at Onomichi Station, runs through the first islands to Ikuchijima, and returns to Onomichi by ferry from Setoda Port. This gives you a taste of the route and the scenery without committing to the full distance. Experienced cyclists often go the entire way to Imabari and either stay overnight there or return by train.

Before you ride, check current rental details, hours and reservation advice, since policies can vary. Bring a helmet if you have one, along with sunglasses, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle. Wear comfortable clothing and carry a light rain jacket. It is also wise to keep a small amount of cash for snacks and ferries.

Island Highlights

Ikuchijima is one of the most appealing islands on the route. In spring, lemon blossoms scent the air, and the fruit is harvested in autumn and winter. Citrus is a local pride, and the area also includes Citrus Park Setoda.

In Setoda, on Ikuchijima, you can visit Kosanji, a temple founded in 1936 by an industrialist in honor of his mother. Its buildings are modeled on some of Japan's most famous historic temples and shrines, and the grounds feature the Hill of Hope, a marble landscape covering around 5,000 square meters. The temple museum holds more than two thousand items, including nineteen Important Cultural Properties. It is an unusual and photogenic stop along the cycling route.

At the Shikoku end, Imabari is famous for towels, producing around sixty percent of those made in Japan. Imabari Castle, built in 1604, is unusual because seawater fills its moat. Ending your ride with a visit to these sights makes for a satisfying finish, and an Imabari towel makes a fitting souvenir.

Tips for a Smooth Ride

The route is suitable for many fitness levels, but it does include long bridge approaches and some climbs, so plan your pace. Spring and autumn are often the most comfortable seasons, with moderate temperatures and clear skies. Summer can be hot and bright, so start early and rest in shade. In windy weather the bridges can feel breezy, so ride carefully and keep both hands steady on the handlebars.

Follow cycling etiquette by keeping left, as in all of Japan, and yield to pedestrians on shared paths. Take care at junctions where the path meets local roads, and be considerate when stopping for photos so you do not block others. Many visitors like to take their time, stopping at viewpoints, snack shops and small shrines, and that relaxed mindset is the best way to enjoy the journey.

If you are not confident cycling all day, split the route across two days and sleep on an island. Staying in a small inn or guesthouse lets you taste the quieter side of the Inland Sea and watch the sunset from the shore.

Quick Takeaways

The Shimanami Kaido is a rare combination of engineering marvels, island scenery and easy logistics. Onomichi provides a charming starting point, while the islands offer lemons, temples and sea views at every turn. With rental bikes, flexible returns and options for short or long rides, it suits beginners and seasoned cyclists alike.

Pack light, carry water, set a gentle pace and enjoy every bridge. A day or two on this route can easily become one of the happiest parts of a trip to Japan.