What to Expect at a Ryokan, Japan's Traditional Inn

Updated October 15, 2026 | By Tokyo Paul

Few travel experiences feel as distinctly Japanese as a night at a ryokan. You slip off your shoes at the entrance, change into a soft cotton robe, sip tea at a low table on woven tatami floors, soak in a hot spring bath, and sit down to a multi-course dinner built around the season. By bedtime, staff have quietly laid out a futon where the tea table stood. It is slow, calm, and thoughtfully hosted, and it is often the highlight of a trip.

If you have never stayed at one, the customs can look like a puzzle. What should you wear? Where do the shoes go? Who sets up the bed? This guide walks through the history of the ryokan, what the rooms are like, how kaiseki dinner works, how to wear a yukata, the basics of onsen bathing, how to book, and what to expect at check-in. Prices, times, and house rules differ between inns, so check current info with your ryokan before you arrive.

What a Ryokan Is and Where It Came From

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. According to the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), ryokan are said to date back to the 8th century, and the organization calls them "potentially the oldest form of hotel in the world." Wikipedia notes that Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan, founded in 705 AD, is described as the world's oldest hotel, with Hoshi Ryokan, founded in 718 AD, known as the second-oldest. It also explains that inns along Japan's highways served travelers in earlier centuries.

Today ryokan are found across the country. JNTO lists examples in Nara and Kyoto, in the mountain and onsen areas of Nagano, and even as contemporary resorts in Tokyo. Many have a Japanese garden, and most have an onsen, or hot spring bath. Staff are described by JNTO as welcoming and ready to explain Japanese customs, so first-timers do not need to feel intimidated.

The Room: Tatami, Slippers, and Futon

The room is where a ryokan feels most different from a regular hotel. japan-guide.com says rooms almost always have tatami flooring with a low table in the center. An adjoining sitting room is usually carpeted and has a Western-style table set. Wikipedia adds that rooms have sliding doors (fusuma) and a small entranceway where guests remove their shoes before stepping onto the tatami.

Bedding is the part that surprises many newcomers. Futon are Japanese mattresses laid directly on the tatami. japan-guide.com explains they are not set out when you arrive: staff keep them in the closet during the day, lay them out in the evening, and put them away in the morning. Wikipedia calls the staff who do this nakai, and says they clear the in-room table and set out the futon while guests are out. In general, leave the futon to the staff unless they ask you to do something different.

Other features worth noticing, per japan-guide.com:

Tea is included for every guest.
Many rooms have a tokonoma, a decorative alcove whose display changes with the seasons. The most important guest traditionally sits in front of it.
Most rooms have a sink, a private bathroom, and a Western-style toilet, while older or budget ryokan may offer only shared toilets and sinks.
Rooms typically include a television, a mini fridge, and a safe.

Kaiseki Dinner and Breakfast

Dinner is a centerpiece of the stay. JNTO says a stay typically includes a kaiseki dinner, a formal multi-course meal, and a traditional Japanese breakfast, using local, seasonal ingredients. japan-guide.com describes ryokan dinners as "elaborate, multi-course affairs" with dishes arranged to show local and seasonal specialties. Wikipedia adds that the word kaiseki originally referred to light meals served during tea ceremonies.

Timing matters. japan-guide.com says dinner is usually served around 18:00 or 19:00, and your dinner time is reconfirmed at check-in. Breakfast is also served at a set time, so confirm it when you check in. Wikipedia notes that guests are asked to arrive punctually so each dish is served at the right temperature, so be on time.

Some practical points:

Where you eat: JNTO says meals are served in a communal dining hall or in your room, depending on the ryokan. japan-guide.com adds a private dining room as another option.
What to wear: Most people wear a yukata to dinner, though your own clothes are also acceptable, per japan-guide.com.
Drinks: Alcohol is usually not included in the room rate. It is ordered separately and added to your bill, according to japan-guide.com. The first drink order is often taken at check-in.
Dietary needs: Contact the ryokan in advance about allergies or special diets. Meals are prepared in advance, especially at smaller inns, so earlier notice gives the ryokan a better chance to accommodate you.

Yukata, Shoes, and Everyday Etiquette

The yukata is a cotton robe similar to a kimono. japan-guide.com says yukata are provided and you can wear them throughout your stay, including to meals, the bath, and bed, but you should not take them home. Its yukata page explains the key rule: fold the right side under, then bring the left side over the right. The reverse is used only for the deceased, so left over right is the way to go. The obi sash is tied at the hips for men and at the waist for women, with the knot resting on the right.

In an onsen town, strolling outside in a yukata is a classic part of the experience. japan-guide.com mentions yukata with geta (wooden clogs) in these towns, and JNTO notes guests may wear geta or zori slippers around the grounds.

Other easy etiquette points:

Take off your shoes at the entrance. JNTO simply says shoes are removed indoors.
Keep voices low in the evening and late at night, since walls can be thin.
Tell staff your preferred dinner time and arrive on time so your meal is served at its best.

Onsen Baths: The Basics

Most ryokan have an onsen, and many rooms have private baths, sometimes outdoors, according to JNTO. Wikipedia says communal baths (ofuro) are usually gender-segregated and use hot spring water where available. Staff generally explain the bathing customs at check-in.

The fundamentals are simple: wash before entering the bath, and learn the entrance signs, where one character means women's and another means men's (check the sign carefully, or ask staff). Private baths (kashikiri) can often be rented. Many guests soak again after dinner, and some bathe again in the morning. If you have tattoos, ask the ryokan about its policy when you book, since a private bath may be an option. For a fuller walkthrough, see the onsen guide listed under Related Reading below.

How to Book and What Check-In Is Like

Prices are usually quoted per person, per room, with meals included. JNTO gives an average of around 15,000 yen per night, with high-end establishments costing more. japan-guide.com puts typical rates at roughly 15,000 to 30,000 yen per person per night, with budget options starting lower and luxury stays costing considerably more. Check current rates when you book.

A few booking tips help. Check room photos and whether the property has onsen facilities, and read listings labeled "hotel" in onsen towns carefully, since some are ryokan. English support varies: japan-guide.com notes that some ryokan cannot be booked online in English, so check how to reserve before you commit. For more information, JNTO points readers to the Japan Ryokan and Hotel Association.

At check-in, which japan-guide.com says is typically possible from around 3 pm, staff show you the facilities, including the baths, and explain bath, dinner, and breakfast times. Check-out is usually 10:00 or 11:00, so it is worth asking whether the inn offers a ride to the nearest station. Confirm times when you reserve, since each inn sets its own schedule.