The Shikoku Pilgrimage: Japan's 88 Temple Journey

Published October 15, 2026 at 12:00 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Imagine a journey that circles an entire island, passes eighty-eight temples and has been walked for around twelve centuries. That is the Shikoku Pilgrimage, one of Japan's best-loved spiritual routes and a beautiful way to see rural life on the smallest of the country's four main islands. You do not need to be Buddhist, or even especially religious, to be moved by its rhythm of walking, bowing and quiet reflection. This guide explains the history behind the route, how the temples are organized, what pilgrims wear and do, and several friendly ways to taste the experience.

A Journey Linked to Kobo Daishi

The pilgrimage is associated with Kukai, a monk of the early ninth century who is better known by his posthumous title Kobo Daishi. He founded the Shingon school of Buddhism and is one of the most admired figures in Japanese history, remembered as a scholar, calligrapher and teacher. Shikoku was his birthplace region, and tradition connects the eighty-eight temples to the paths he is believed to have walked and the places where he practiced.

A beautiful idea at the heart of the route is called dogyo ninin, which means two people traveling together. Pilgrims believe that Kobo Daishi walks beside them every step of the way, so no one is ever truly alone. Many pilgrims carry a staff that is treated as a symbol of the master, and it is looked after with care. That gentle belief gives the walk a warm, companionable feeling, even for those traveling by themselves.

The island has four old provinces, which are now the prefectures of Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime and Kagawa. The temples are spread across all four, and the pilgrimage is traditionally divided into four stages that follow a path toward enlightenment. They are often called awakening, austerity, enlightenment and nirvana, and moving through them gives the long journey a clear sense of shape.

How the 88 Temples Are Organized

The route begins at Temple 1, Ryozenji, in Tokushima, and finishes at Temple 88, Okuboji, in Kagawa. Temples 1 to 23 belong to the awakening stage, 24 to 39 to the austerity stage, 40 to 65 to the enlightenment stage, and 66 to 88 to the final nirvana stage. Going in numerical order is the traditional clockwise approach, known as jun-uchi, while the reverse direction is called gyaku-uchi. Pilgrims are not strictly required to start at Temple 1 or follow the order, and some travelers simply begin at the temple nearest their home.

The standard walking route covers roughly 1,200 kilometers, and completing it on foot usually takes about thirty to sixty days. Many people travel in other ways, including by car, bus, bicycle or train, and each of those counts as a genuine pilgrimage. Some choose to go section by section over several trips, which is a very popular and practical approach.

Finishing all eighty-eight temples is called kechigan. Some pilgrims add a visit to Koyasan in Wakayama, the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, to give thanks, and this longer completion is called mangan. These traditions reflect how closely the pilgrimage is tied to the life and legacy of Kobo Daishi.

What Pilgrims Wear and Carry

Pilgrims are called henro, and in Shikoku they are often addressed warmly as o-henro-san. The traditional outfit includes a white jacket, a sedge hat and a wooden or bamboo staff known as a kongo-zue. The white clothing symbolizes purity, and the hat and staff are practical for sun, rain and uneven paths. Many casual visitors choose to wear only part of the outfit, and that is perfectly welcome.

Another essential item is the nokyocho, a stamp book. At each temple, a staff member writes beautiful calligraphy and presses red seals in the book, creating a personal record of the journey. Many pilgrims treasure their books for life. If you decide to wear the white jacket, it is considered better to have your stamps placed in the book rather than on the clothing.

Pilgrims also carry small name slips, called osamefuda, which can be left at temples or given to people who offer kindness. These items add small rituals to the day and give the walk a sense of tradition even for first-timers.

Etiquette and Temple Routines

At each temple, a familiar pattern helps pilgrims feel at ease. Visitors bow at the main gate and step over the threshold rather than onto it. Next comes the hand-washing basin, where you rinse each hand in turn. Pilgrims then go to the main hall, light a candle and incense, make an offering, and recite a sutra or simply place their hands together in prayer. The same sequence is repeated at the smaller hall dedicated to Kobo Daishi. Finally, the nokyocho is taken to the temple office for its stamp, and pilgrims bow once more toward the gate as they leave.

The bell is usually rung once when arriving, but not when leaving. Staffs are leaned carefully, and many pilgrims avoid tapping them on bridges as a gesture of respect. If a temple has posted signs about photography or quiet zones, following them is always appreciated. Beginners can watch other pilgrims or ask politely, and most people are happy to help.

Perhaps the most famous custom is osettai, the tradition of local people offering small gifts such as snacks, drinks or encouragement to pilgrims. The kindest response is to accept graciously with a thank you and a name slip if you have one. It is part of what makes the island so beloved, a long-standing culture of hospitality.

Ways to Try It and When to Go

You do not need weeks of free time to enjoy the spirit of the pilgrimage. Short routes make it easy to sample the experience, such as the Gokasho Mairi in Tokushima, which visits five temples, or the Nanakasho Mairi near Zentsuji in Kagawa, which visits seven. These routes can be done in a day and fit well into a general trip around Shikoku.

Spring, from roughly March to June, and autumn, from about September to November, are considered the most comfortable seasons for walking. Weather is milder, the scenery is lovely, and the paths are pleasant. Summers can be hot and humid, and winters can bring colder air, so pilgrims who go in those seasons plan more carefully. Comfortable walking shoes, rain gear, water and a small first aid kit are sensible for any walking day.

Accommodation can be part of the experience. Some temples offer shukubo, a temple lodging with simple rooms and shojin ryori, a Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. Staying in one is a memorable way to experience morning chanting and a quiet atmosphere. Because lodging fills up in busy seasons, it helps to plan ahead.

Quick Takeaways

The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a living tradition, shaped by Kobo Daishi, kind local hospitality and a clear path of eighty-eight temples. You can walk it in weeks, drive it in days or sample it in an afternoon, and each version has real value. The white clothing, stamp book and gentle rituals give structure, while the island's mountains, coast and villages supply the beauty.

Go with an open heart, move at your own pace and accept the kindness you meet along the way. Whether you finish all eighty-eight temples or visit just one, the experience tends to stay with you long after you return home.