Sugamo Jizo-dori: Tokyo's Shopping Street Known as Grandma's Harajuku

Sugamo's Jizo-dori is a relaxed, old-fashioned shopping street beside a well-loved temple, and this guide explains what to see, what to try and how to get there.

Published October 20, 2026 at 12:50 PM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Sugamo Jizo-dori is a retro shopping street in Toshima Ward, Tokyo, near Sugamo Station on the Yamanote Line. It is popular with older shoppers, which earned the neighborhood the nickname Grandma's Harajuku. The street has snack stalls, craft and souvenir stalls and shops, and it leads toward Koganji temple, known for its Togenuki Jizo statue.

What Jizo-dori is

Sugamo is a neighborhood in Toshima Ward, in the northern part of central Tokyo. Its main attraction is Jizo-dori, a shopping street that the official Tokyo tourism guide describes as retro, lined with shops, street vendors, and craft, snack and souvenir stalls, many with low prices. The Wikipedia article on Sugamo describes Jizo-dori as a shopping street popular with older people, which gives the neighborhood its nickname of Granny's Harajuku. The contrast with the youth fashion district it is compared to is part of the charm.

The name points to the street's anchor. Jizo is a bodhisattva loved across Japan, and the street leads to a temple known for its Jizo statue. For a visitor, it works as an easy half-day outing: walk the street, stop at the temple, snack along the way and head back to the train.

The temple and the Togenuki Jizo

Koganji is a Buddhist temple that, according to the Go Tokyo guide, was founded in 1596 and moved to Sugamo in 1891. It is known for the Togenuki Jizo statue, which the guide says is said to have cured a samurai's wife of illness. The name is usually translated as the thorn-removing Jizo, and people visit hoping for relief from ailments and for good health.

In front of the temple stands the Arai Kannon, a statue that elderly visitors wash with water, hoping to ease their own aches and pains. Jizo himself, according to the Wikipedia article on the figure, is regarded as one of the protective deities of travelers and as a guardian of children, and roadside statues of him are a common sight in Japan. Visitors are welcome to look on respectfully, and the usual temple courtesies apply: keep your voice low, and follow any posted signs about photography and where to stand.

Why red clothing is such a big theme

Shops along Jizo-dori are well known for red clothing, including red socks, scarves, T-shirts and underwear. The Go Tokyo guide explains the background in neutral terms: red symbolizes luck and longevity in Japan, and the traditional gift for a 60th birthday is red clothing, since turning 60 is treated as a fresh start.

That milestone has a name. Kanreki is the Japanese term for the sixtieth birthday, and the Wikipedia article on it explains that the age marked a full sexagenary cycle and was seen as a threshold, with some viewing it as the start of a second lifetime. Red items in Sugamo make a cheerful, small souvenir or gift, and a pair of red socks is an easy, lighthearted choice for travelers.

Snacks and what to taste

Food is a big part of the Sugamo outing. The Go Tokyo guide names shio-daifuku as a local snack: a sweet and salty rice cake, soft on the outside, with filling inside. Shopkeepers along the street also offer food samples, so a slow walk with a few small bites can double as a light meal.

The street suits people who enjoy browsing without a fixed plan. Because stalls change and individual shops open and close over time, there is no need to hunt for a particular name. Walk the length of the street, look for what is freshly made, and choose what appeals. Carrying a little cash is handy for small stalls.

The Go Tokyo guide describes the stalls as selling craft items and souvenirs as well as snacks, so a short loop can turn up small gifts to bring home. A relaxed, unhurried pace suits the street.

Getting there by train and tram

Sugamo Station is served by the JR Yamanote Line (station code JY11) and the Toei Mita Line, according to the Wikipedia article on the station. The station opened on April 1, 1903. The Go Tokyo guide gives approximate travel times: about 20 minutes from Shinjuku and about 25 minutes from Tokyo on the Yamanote Line, about 55 minutes from Haneda Airport and about 1 hour 20 minutes from Narita Airport by train.

The Toden Arakawa tram also runs through the area. Wikipedia describes it as the sole survivor of Tokyo's Toden tram system, a 12.2 kilometer line between Minowabashi and Waseda, and notes that Koshinzuka station sits in the middle of Jizo-dori. Riding the tram can be a charming way to arrive or leave, but check the current fare and timetable on the operator's page.

Planning a visit and etiquette

A visit takes about two hours at an easy pace: walk the street, visit the temple, stop for a snack. Weekdays are often calmer, while busy days around the temple can draw larger crowds, so check the temple's own information if a particular event matters to you. Because the street is a neighborhood shopping area, many shops serve regular local customers, and a polite greeting and a smile go a long way.

Pair Sugamo with another stop on the Yamanote Line, since the loop makes it simple to add a second neighborhood. Opening hours, prices and events can change, so check the Go Tokyo guide and the temple's own information for the latest details. Keep walkways clear when stopping to take photos, and ask before photographing people.

A few small habits make the outing smoother. Wear comfortable shoes for a slow walk on a street that can be busy with shoppers, carry a little cash for small stalls and keep a bag or tote for souvenirs and snacks. If you are traveling with older relatives, the unhurried atmosphere makes Sugamo an easy outing to share, though it is wise to check access details for your own needs.

Related ideas and neighborhoods

The nickname invites a comparison with the original Harajuku, which is also on the Yamanote Line and offers a very different style of shopping. Seeing both in one day makes a pleasant contrast: one street is built around youth fashion, the other around generations of local shoppers and the pleasures of simple snacks, small gifts and a quiet temple stop.

Sugamo is also a good example of everyday Tokyo life away from the best-known landmarks. The Toden Arakawa tram, the neighborhood schools and the shopping street all share the same few blocks, and the Wikipedia article on Sugamo notes that the area sits where the Yamanote Line crosses National Route 17. A relaxed walk here shows how a busy city keeps small, slower-paced pockets.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is Sugamo called Grandma's Harajuku?

Sugamo's Jizo-dori shopping street is popular with older shoppers, and the Harajuku comparison plays on that. Where Harajuku is known for youth fashion, Sugamo offers a retro street of snack stalls, craft and souvenir shops, and a well-known temple. The nickname is affectionate and describes who the street suits.

How do I get to Sugamo Jizo-dori?

Take the JR Yamanote Line or the Toei Mita Line to Sugamo Station. The Go Tokyo guide gives about 20 minutes from Shinjuku and about 25 minutes from Tokyo on the Yamanote Line. The Toden Arakawa tram also stops at Koshinzuka in the middle of the street.

What is Togenuki Jizo?

Togenuki Jizo is the well-known statue at Koganji temple in Sugamo. The Go Tokyo guide says it is said to have cured a samurai's wife of illness, and people pray there for good health. The name is usually translated as thorn-removing Jizo. Visitors should be respectful and follow the temple's posted signs.

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