What is hatsumode and how do visitors take part?

Find out what hatsumode is, when people make their first shrine or temple visit of the year, and how visitors can join in respectfully.

Published October 21, 2026 at 8:21 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: Hatsumode is the first visit of the New Year to a Shinto shrine or Buddhist temple. Most people go on January 1, 2 or 3, make wishes for the year ahead, and buy charms or fortunes. Visitors are generally welcome to join respectfully, though the biggest sites are very crowded, so check each shrine's official page for hours and arrangements.

What hatsumode is

Hatsumode (the first shrine or temple visit of the year) is one of the best-known Japanese New Year customs. The word combines kanji meaning "first" and "visiting a shrine or temple." The idea is to mark a fresh start to the year, give thanks for the past year and make wishes or prayers for the year ahead.

Most people go on the first, second or third day of January. Many Japanese people outside retail and emergency services have time off from around December 29 to January 3, which makes this a natural time for family outings. Some people prefer to go later in January to avoid crowds, and shrines generally welcome visits throughout the month.

The custom is considered fairly recent in its present form. It is described as having been largely shaped in the Meiji era, partly through railway companies that promoted New Year trips to well-known shrines and temples. Even so, visiting a shrine at the start of the year feels deeply traditional to most people today.

How hatsumode usually works

A typical visit begins by passing through the torii gate at a Shinto shrine or the main gate of a Buddhist temple. Visitors then walk toward the main hall, often along a lane lined with temporary food stalls. At the hall, people make a small offering, usually coins, and say a short silent prayer for the year. Shrines and temples have slightly different prayer manners, and posted instructions near the offering box explain the steps.

Many people then buy new omamori (charms or amulets) for protection or good fortune, and return old ones from the previous year to the shrine so they can be ritually disposed of. Another popular activity is drawing an omikuji, a written fortune that covers matters such as business and love. If the fortune is unfavorable, people often tie it to a designated tree or rack on the grounds, hoping the prediction will not come true.

People also write wishes on ema, small wooden plaques that are hung on a rack at the shrine. A common finish to the visit is browsing the festival-style food stalls, which typically sell hot snacks and sweet drinks that suit the winter weather.

Ninenmairi and the New Year's Eve connection

Some people begin hatsumode before midnight on December 31. This style, called ninenmairi, starts on New Year's Eve and continues into New Year's Day, so it spans two calendar years. People often write wishes on ema, and toshikoshi soba (noodles eaten at the end of the year) is traditionally eaten about an hour before midnight.

For visitors, this means many shrines and temples are busy late at night on December 31, with queues forming and sometimes special rules to manage the flow of people. Public transport may run extra late services around New Year's Eve in some cities, but schedules vary, so check the operator's announcements well in advance.

If the late-night crowds do not appeal, daytime visits on January 1 to 3 are the most traditional alternative. The days after January 3 can be much calmer, and still offer food stalls at some sites, as well as fortune slips and charms. The right timing depends on how much atmosphere and how little waiting a traveler prefers.

Where to go and what to expect

Almost every shrine and temple takes part, from tiny neighborhood shrines to enormous national sites. Sensoji in Tokyo is among the most popular. Wikipedia cites counts for the first three days of January 2010: Meiji Jingu with about 3.2 million visitors, Narita-san about 2.98 million, Kawasaki Daishi about 2.96 million, Fushimi Inari-taisha about 2.7 million and Sumiyoshi Taisha about 2.6 million. Numbers differ by year, but they show how busy the biggest sites can be.

Tokyo's official tourism guide also calls Meiji Jingu and Sensoji two of the city's top hatsumode spots. Other well-known choices include Atsuta Jingu, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, Dazaifu Tenman-gu and Hikawa Shrine. Each region has its own favorites, and a local shrine can be just as meaningful. Choosing a smaller site is often easier for first-time visitors, especially those with young children.

Because hatsumode is so popular, crowd control is common at big sites: one-way routes, queuing lines, and staff directing traffic. Visitors should expect a slow-moving line during peak times, and should follow signs, avoid blocking paths and keep belongings secure. The official page of each shrine usually explains arrangements for the New Year period.

Costs, timing and special cases

Entering a shrine's grounds is typically free. Costs come from the small offering, charms, fortunes and ema, which are usually modest and posted on signs or price lists. Food stalls are priced individually. Because rules and prices vary by site, check the official page or signs on the day instead of relying on a single number.

Families can enjoy hatsumode, but crowds can be tiring for small children, so earlier or later visits on quieter days may be easier. Older travelers or those with limited mobility should check whether the site has seating, ramps or alternate routes, and may prefer a quieter shrine. Dressing warmly is important, as shrine grounds are outdoors and January is cold in most regions.

There are no nationality rules for visiting. Visitors of any religion or none are generally welcome if they behave respectfully. Photography is often allowed in outdoor areas but may be restricted at the main hall or during rituals, so follow posted signs. Some temples and shrines may close certain areas temporarily to manage crowds.

Common mistakes and misunderstandings

A common mistake is assuming everything is open in Japan on January 1. Many shops, restaurants and attractions close for the New Year holidays, so it helps to plan meals and transport in advance. Another is expecting a quiet, solemn atmosphere at famous sites: hatsumode at big shrines is lively, crowded and festive, with a mix of prayers and food stalls.

Visitors sometimes also worry that they must follow every ritual exactly. Shrines expect respectful behavior, not perfection, and most Japanese visitors follow a simple pattern of bowing, offering and a short prayer. Watching others and following posted instructions is usually enough. If unsure, a quiet bow and a moment of reflection are always acceptable.

Finally, old charms and ema should not be thrown away casually. Omamori from the previous year are normally returned to the shrine for disposal, and bad-luck omikuji are tied on the designated rack or tree. Visitors who bring charms from home can do the same, and shrine staff can point out the correct place if asked.

Practical next steps

Decide whether to go at midnight, on January 1 to 3, or later in January. Choose a shrine or temple that fits the group, look at its official page for hours and crowd measures, and plan transport and meals ahead because many businesses close. Bring small coins for the offering, warm clothes and patience for queues. A smaller local shrine is a good choice for a first visit.

If the trip does not include New Year, shrines and temples are open all year, and a visit at any time can include a similar offering, prayer and fortune. The Japan National Tourism Organization and local tourism offices publish information on shrine etiquette and seasonal events. Local pages also list special New Year events, such as ceremonies held early on January 1.

This guide shares general information; rules change, so confirm details with the official agency or provider before you act. New Year arrangements such as hours, entry rules and extra train services often change, so check the official pages of the shrine and of local transport operators before traveling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you have to be Japanese or religious to do hatsumode?

No. Visitors of any background are generally welcome at shrines and temples if they behave respectfully. There is no test of belief; most people simply bow, make an offering and offer a short prayer. Following posted instructions and watching others is usually enough, and shrine staff can help if asked.

What are omikuji and ema?

Omikuji are written fortunes that cover areas such as business and love. If a fortune is unfavorable, people often tie it to a tree or rack at the shrine. Ema are small wooden plaques where people write wishes for the year and hang them at the shrine. Both are available for a small fee.

Can hatsumode be done after January 3?

Yes. Most people go on January 1 to 3, but shrines and temples welcome visitors throughout the year. Going later in January often means shorter queues and a calmer atmosphere, although some special New Year events and stalls may have ended. Check the official page of the site for current information.

Want to go deeper? Tokyo Paul's book Japanese Culture and Customs is available on Amazon.

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