Sanuki Udon Trail: A Day of Noodle Shops in Kagawa

Here is a practical plan for spending one happy day hopping between udon shops in Kagawa, with sights and rail tips between bowls.

Published October 26, 2026 at 11:47 AM JST | By Tokyo Paul

Quick answer: A Sanuki udon trail means visiting two to four noodle shops in one day in Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku, ordering a small or regular bowl at each. Sanuki udon is thick, square-edged and chewy, and Kagawa has the most noodle shops per person in Japan. Base yourself in Takamatsu or Marugame, travel by train or local railway, and pair the noodle stops with a garden or castle.

Kagawa is the smallest prefecture in Japan by area, yet it has become one of the country's best-known food destinations because of its udon. Visitors often ask how many shops to try, how to order, how to get around without a car and what else to see. This guide lays out a sample day, explains the common bowl styles, and offers tips about rail, timing and manners. It builds on the idea of a trail rather than a single famous restaurant, so you can fit the pieces to your own pace.

Why Kagawa is the udon prefecture

Kagawa was formerly known as Sanuki Province, and Sanuki udon is named after it. Wikipedia describes the noodle as a square-shaped style with flat edges and a chewy texture, made from wheat flour and salt, with dried sardines (niboshi or iriko) often used for the broth and dipping sauce. The province had mild, sunny weather and flat land well suited to grain, and wheat, salt, soy sauce and dried sardines were all easy to find locally.

As of 2016, Kagawa had the most noodle shops per capita in Japan, shared with soba, and the highest wheat use for udon. Wikipedia notes that Kagawa's share of the domestic udon market grew from about five percent in 1980 to around twenty-five percent roughly twenty-five years later. In 2008 the prefecture had more than seven hundred udon restaurants, according to the Kagawa Prefecture entry.

Udon is part of daily life there, and some local customs even replace New Year's Eve soba with udon. For visitors, this means shops of every kind, from small family places to larger modern counters.

Learn the bowl styles before you go

Knowing a few terms makes ordering easier. Kake udon is hot noodles in a light broth, usually with scallions and sometimes fish cake. Bukkake udon has cold noodles with a strong dashi broth poured over them. Zaru udon is chilled noodles served on a bamboo tray with a dipping sauce. Kamaage udon comes in the hot water it was boiled in, with a dipping sauce on the side.

Tsukimi udon is topped with a raw egg that softens in hot soup, and many shops add tempura, fried tofu, scallions, ginger or grated radish. Names and details vary from shop to shop, so look at the menu board or ask staff.

Portion sizes also differ. Many visitors on a trail order the smallest size so they can eat at several places. Prices generally sit in a modest range, but confirm them on site.

Choose a base: Takamatsu or Marugame

Takamatsu, the prefectural capital, is the easiest base. Wikipedia describes it as the largest municipality on Shikoku and a hub for rail and road, served by the JR Shikoku Yosan Line, with trains to Okayama on Honshu across the Seto-Ohashi Bridge. The private Takamatsu-Kotohira Electric Railroad, known as Kotoden, connects much of the city and the region.

Marugame, to the west along the coast, is another good base. It is a smaller city in north-central Kagawa and is increasingly a commuter town for Takamatsu, according to Wikipedia. Its castle is a National Historic Site and one of only twelve in Japan with an original wooden keep.

If you arrive from Okayama, trains cross the Seto Inland Sea on the Seto-Ohashi Bridge. Confirm schedules on the operators' websites before you travel.

A sample day on the trail

A relaxed plan might start in the late morning, since many noodle places open for lunch and some keep short hours. Begin with a first bowl near Takamatsu Station, then walk or ride to a garden or castle to settle your appetite.

Midday suits a second shop, perhaps in a different style, such as a cold bowl after a hot one. Mid-afternoon is a good time to travel by Kotoden or JR to another town for a third bowl. If you have energy, a final small bowl before an early dinner completes the trail.

Some small shops may close early or when they run out of noodles, so plan your most important stops earlier in the day. Check opening days too, as some shops close one or two days a week. Keep a map saved offline, because side streets can be hard to spot.

Rather than rushing, treat the day as a gentle tour with breaks. Two or three bowls are plenty for most people.

Sights between bowls

Ritsurin Garden is the highlight of Takamatsu. It was begun in 1625, completed in 1745, and opened to the public in 1875, and it was designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty in 1953. At 75 hectares, it offers ponds, pine trees, a teahouse and views of Mount Shiun, making it a pleasant walk between meals.

Takamatsu Castle is known for its seawater moat. Yashima, a table-shaped plateau near the city, has Yashima-ji (temple 84 on the Shikoku pilgrimage), an open-air museum at its base and an observation deck with sea views. Marugame Castle, mentioned above, is another option if you are staying on that side of the prefecture.

These stops give the day variety so that noodles remain a joy rather than a task. Opening hours and entry fees change, so check the official pages.

Getting around without a car

You can enjoy the trail without driving. The JR Yosan Line links Takamatsu with Marugame and other towns, and the Kotoden railway connects Takamatsu with Kotohira and other local stations. Wikipedia notes that Kotoden trains and buses accept a regional contactless card called IruCa, and many travelers also use nationwide IC cards where accepted.

Some famous shops sit away from stations, so a taxi, bus or rental bicycle may be needed for the last stretch.

Local timetables are less frequent than in Tokyo, so check the next train before you leave a station. A little planning keeps the day smooth.

Ordering and manners

Shops follow different systems. In some, you order at a counter and carry your tray; in others, staff take your order at the table. Watch what others do, read posted instructions or ask staff, who are used to visitors.

It is polite to finish your bowl and to return trays if the shop asks. Seasonings such as scallions or ginger may be set out for you to add yourself.

Udon is made with wheat, and broths often use fish. Visitors with allergies or diet needs should ask shop staff about ingredients before ordering, because recipes vary by maker, and the language barrier can be real. Carrying a written note in Japanese helps.

Making it your own

The trail suits solo travelers, couples and families. Mix styles, try seasonal toppings and mix in a little sightseeing. Pick up a noodle-themed souvenir or a pack of dried udon if a shop sells it, and check any rules for bringing food home.

Each stop will be slightly different in texture, broth and atmosphere, which is what makes comparing shops fun. By the end of the day, you will understand why people in Kagawa talk about udon with such pride.

Want to go deeper? Tokyo Paul's book Tokyo Info Guide is available on Amazon.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many udon shops can you visit in one day?

Most visitors enjoy two to four shops if they order small portions. Plan the more popular stops for earlier in the day, since some shops close when noodles run out. Leave time between bowls for a garden, castle or short train ride, and confirm each shop's opening days.

What makes Sanuki udon different from other udon?

According to Wikipedia, Sanuki udon from Kagawa Prefecture is square-shaped with flat edges and a chewy texture. The broth often uses dried sardines. Other regions have their own styles, such as the flat, wavy noodles of Nagoya or the thinner Inaniwa noodles of Akita.

Do you need a car to do an udon trail in Kagawa?

Not necessarily. Takamatsu and Marugame are connected by the JR Yosan Line, and the Kotoden railway serves the Takamatsu area. Some well-known shops are farther from stations, so a taxi, bus or bicycle may help. Check current timetables before you plan.

Keep Exploring

More guides from Tokyo Paul: Sanuki Udon: Kagawa's Beloved Noodle Trail, The Shikoku Pilgrimage: Japan's 88 Temple Journey and Shodoshima: The Olive Island of the Seto Inland Sea.